Yesterday I decided to replace the battery on my 07 SE as it was showing signs of struggling on turnover after 2 cold, below freezing, nights. It still started first turn but was not turning over the engine as strongly as normal.
I bought the car when it was just over 2 years old and have all service receipts etc from previous owner and there was nothing to suggest that it was not the original battery.
It had the LR logo on it so I am assuming it was the original.
The car was registered in April 2007 so I think the battery was at least 10 years old - how old is yours? Tattoos - Why would you choose to look like the wall of a public toilet?

mine is just 6 years old I think, still with LR logo.. but is showing signs of struggling

at night on some gear changes the headlights flicker
few turnovers in the colder morning to get things going
HDC warning on dash display once
reduced performance on dash display once

brakes need doing first all round and a service so will hold out on replacing the battery for a little while.

I changed mine 12 months ago for no other reason than it was original Battery from 2007.
I have kept it charged in my workshop and it has been used a few times to jump start other cars.

Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Yes, also thinking of keeping the old battery charged as a spare Tattoos - Why would you choose to look like the wall of a public toilet?

mines 2 years old and it sh e, can't cope with keeping a in car camera on for more than 15minutes before the voltage cut-out turns the camera off to save the battery, the rear camera turns off straight away as do the headrest screens

My '09 battery could last all night, newer FL2 are just power hungry, even when I top up with my CTEK a day or two later its back to turning off, it also cuts off the power to the camera/screens when driving, when im pulling up at a junction 1/4 mile down the road

LR just say its because I am drawing too much power, from the battery, I say the alternator doesn't put out enough power or I need a second battery installation  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Mine's original MY2011 and still doing strong.

Although I do have suspicions that the battery may be the reason my stop/start almost never does it's thing. But whilst it starts the engine instantly every time, I'm not about to fork out for a new one just to find out.

My original late 2010 battery started not holding a decent charge not long after I got the car (2014) and the start stop never worked. Replaced it and start stop works every time it should. For the price of a new battery I think it is worth it. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Still on the 2008 original battery, the car has DEFA heating system that will also charge the battery so cold mornings starts are a breeze, will see in spring how it works without the charging.

My wife's 56 reg Peugeot 207 is on it's original battery and going strong. My son's 10 reg Porsche 911 battery failed last weekend (probably as it's only used at weekends). Nearly £200 for a replacement ! 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

still on the original 07 battery. I use the car mainly for shortish 3-4 ml runs so I trickle charge it occasionally & when it's cold. I'm impressed actually

I changed my battery in december last year.
It had not failed but was just starting to struggle on cold mornings.
It was date stamped wk51 2006. I checked twice as it was nine years old and certainly the original battery.

JGH99 Freelander 2 GS Stornoway Grey
Jan 2007 Bought 71,000 miles. Currently 149,300 miles.

Original 2008
Works ok

If you are doing mostly short trips & starting the engine in cold weather it is a fair load on the battery.

238 amps for the petrol engine in warm weather.
 Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I changed the battery on my 2011 td4.e a month ago and suddenly discovered the '.e' eco function. It really does stop the engine at traffic lights and restart instantly.

I invested in a CETEK charger @ the start of the winter & give the battery a overnight charge every fortnight, car starts no problem & stop/start works as it should. This time of year the battery takes a hammering with lights heater etc on all the time.