Hi All,

Just got my first Freelander (2010) and am having issues with the Halogen dipped beam. It would appear I'm not alone wishing to upgrade to XENON's as the forum is littered with questions and 'some' answers. Is there any chance someone who has done it could kindly provide a list of parts and the process to complete the conversion?

I know the easy way is to 'buy' XENON original units but having looked around...I'll find rocking horse '****' before I find a RHD pair up for sale.

I realise their are a number of different headlight configurations but to start with lets assume reflector (rather than projector) headlights are out and we are just looking to upgrade the H7/H11 housing (my one....selfish I know) and the newer one with the LED's.

I'm sure someone knows the parts needed and how to do it....we would all love to know.

Regards,

Dz

May have just walked past some rocking horse poo...

Can anyone answer this quick question please...

If I were to find a pair of lights that are marked up on the label as "HID UK, 6H52-13W030-DC, VISTEON AUTOPAL L359, BIXENON"...could I just swap them over for mine? They look from the outside the same as mine i.e. H7 Main and Projector dipped.

Is it just swap them over and get them coded? At 90 quid each...almost worth a punt.

Its been mentioned many times but I dont think its been clearly and definitely answered properly, you just could buy some and plug them in yes, and then have the system updated to recognise them so they light up, but what no one seems to know is how does the auto leveling system operate if swopping from Halogen system to Xenon? halogens have manual adjustment from the dash but Xenons need to adjust themselves as the cars attitude changes as you drive to avoid blinding folk coming the other way, You cant just not bother and forget about it.
It cant be easy and as simple as just swop units as virtually everyone would have done it, unless those that do it dont bother about the legal aspect and fingers crossed at MOT time?

Thanks for responding.

The auto-level is a strange one as it would appear that this shouldn't be an issue at MOT time as long as everything that is installed works. Dazzling people is not an option...I hate that and would rather stick with the current setup. Having said that, the manual adjuster works and I rarely have much of a load in the back (other than the dog) so I shouldn't be blinding people. If I was to carry a load...I would make the adjustments as I would today.

I don't think the system is as dynamic as you suggest I.e. It only senses the need to adjust the level when you turn on the ignition based on the load within the car. It won't make changes as you are driving down a road. AFS will make changes from left to right as needed but not up and down (unless you've just thrown a big mother-in law out of the boot).

From what I have managed to find out today to the ole internet...

1) The headlights already have the adjustment motors installed and it would appear the same motors are used for both manual and auto-leveling.
2) Auto-leveling cars have a Leveling ECU which is located in / near the glove box
3) There are also front and rear hight-sensors (looks like the Air-suspension hight sensors)

I can't find anywhere that talks about the wiring loom and if the loom is ready and waiting for these components to be installed. Once installed what is then required. I can only assume that someone would need to login and make changes to the configuration file to get things working. All sounds very complicated.

Seems (as mentioned elsewhere on this forum) Hella (who seem to make most OEM spec headlights) also make an after-market leveling system which appears to work with the existing motors.

After having spoken to the man who owns the Rocking horse... he's prepared to sell the pair for 160 quid and a local Jag/LR workshop have offered to update the CCF to stop the fickering for 50 quid. I'll then rely on the manual adjustment if I have a heavy load in the back. Unless anyone has knowledge to the contrary that this won't work and I'm wasting my hard earned cash...

On my old FL2, it had been converted from Halogen lights to Xenon. You don't actually need to have a self levelling system operating with Xenons for the MOT if you have converted them from Halogens - the self levelling system only has to be working IF FITTED. Trust me - I'm an MOT tester!
P.s. Just have them correctly adjusted with a full tank of fuel and you won't dazzle anyone.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

HID at MOT

The MOT Manual states that these cars MAY be fitted with headlamp washers and self/auto leveling.

Reason for Failure:Either of these devices not working.

Nothing to say Must be fitted.

From this I would say that retro fit kits are perfectly legal. All FL2's (3) Gone
2011 Mercedes C180 CGI Gone
FL2 GS Auto SD with heated leather, factory tints, alloy spare and a few other bits.

So, as an MOT tester, sort of like I said above then?  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

So what is something like this all about then:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/CAR-ROVER%C2%AE-Ca...&psc=1

or this...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-X-treme-Vi...nder+xenon

What I'm trying to say is for the uneducated in most things to do with cars (which is why I seek guidance from a site like this) I look at a product such as those I've mentioned and think 'great a quick fix, I can get a Xenon upgrade with all its light improvements for peanuts'. I'm assuming all that glitters isn't gold (or xenon) in this case.

Ok, so an update.

I bought the Bi-Xenon lights from a local Car recycling firm (Car breaker to us older types) for 160 pounds for the pair. They are physically the same as what I had i.e. H7 main beam and Projector for dipped. They came with the tray attached so had to remove those. Replaced the H7 bulbs with my Halfords 120%'s and installed to lights.

As everyone else has pointed out, the lights work if the ignition is on but flickered with the engine running. I booked the car into a local Jag/LR specialist and he updated the CCF with the details of the most basic Xenon lights...and the Flickering stopped. Cost 54 quid.

The manual beam height adjustment works and the beam pattern is the same height as before (marked this on the garage wall before changing the lights over).

So, 204 quid and I've gone to the 'bright' side. If, the MOT throws up any problems which I don't expect, I'll quickly replace the originals for the test.

If anyone needs a set of trays, let me know and we can sort something out (I'm in SO19).

Cheers for all the help.

Dz0rpw wrote:

I don't think the system is as dynamic as you suggest I.e. It only senses the need to adjust the level when you turn on the ignition based on the load within the car. It won't make changes as you are driving down a road. AFS will make changes from left to right as needed but not up and down (unless you've just thrown a big mother-in law out of the boot).

Well done
Don't know about the earlier system but I can assure you the levelling is most Definitely "dynamic". When I'm entering/exiting my garage it quite a level change and not only can you see the beam
Level changing on the fences you can hear the actuators whirring away to level out the beam.
Its also very noticeable on uneven surfaces. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Thanks.

Interesting idea about the dynamic leveling but that would mean the car have some form of gyroscopic sensor to understand what the true horizontal is.

The only details I've managed to find is where the rear and front suspension height is measured. This allows the car to know if there is a heavy load within the car, rather than the angle of the road the car is sat on. There is no benefit of adjusting the beam height based on the angle of the road, only the angle of the car's suspension.

Example: If you are traveling up a steep hill, the lights should 'not' change their angle. If they were to change, you either will not be able to see the road ahead (if they moved down) or you would blind those coming towards you (if they moved up).

So I can't explain why yours change, it's not that I don't believe you, I just don't understand the value.

When I come in and out of my garage either the front end is higher/lower than my rear depending on entry/exit so yes they do adjust because of the extreme angle of the vehicle. Bit hard to explain but not the same as going up or down a hill as I'm not perpendicular with the road. Also opposing side wheels are in contrasting states of compression and extension so yes the headlights most definitely are correcting beam angle.
The "value" - it's not illegal and your not going to blind an oncoming driver, possibly causing an accident. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Maybe the dynamic version compensates for speed i.e. the compressive force of breaking would cause the front and rear suspension sensors to change and if connected to the ABS (or other breaking sensors) know that I'm braking so I can move the lights up slightly for a moment. Conversely if your accelerating, again the suspension height sensors would see the difference, added to the speed sensor, adjust them momentarily downwards.

That would certainly add value