Hi all, as the subject states I started getting a whine in 3rd and 4th gear on my 2011 SD4 which has done around 52000 miles. I first noticed it a couple of weeks ago and have since had the oil changed which hasn't made any difference.

I wonder if its the haldex but am open to advice, hopefully of cheaper solutions

Cheers everyone

Hi Admin, the reason I didn't put this in here to start with is that the whine isn't speed related so hoping its not haldex. Appologies.

John

Emailed Bell Engineering who have said as only showing up in 3rd and 4th gear it's likely to be gearbox related.

Any ideas guys?

Ive just had Austen at Bel Engineering sort my car for what we initially thought was a diff - I had it checked out before i went down as there was some doubt as I was getting a whine under load, but not on overrun from say 30 - 65, If its a diff its normally both loaded and unloaded. Turns out my transfer box was shot which Austen had sorted in 3,5 hours the car is like new now!
If you can get down there its worth the drive aa Austen really knows his stuff.

Last edited by Marksovereign on 18th Oct 2016 1:22 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I was chatting to a guy with an FL2 in a car park today who claimed that the service history of his vehicle showed that the rear diff bearing had been done at 1100 miles! Surprised that they didn't hear it when it was driven out of the factory. This must be some sort of record. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

So just back from Frank Ogg and Sons in Aberlour a well respected independent garage who took a look at my whine today.

Before putting her up on the lift the mechanic said it sounded like the rear diff but on looking underneath and listening for the sound he now believes it is the front transfer box, which doesn't seem to be a very common problem.

My question is do you think LR will contribute anything towards the replacement, assuming that I'd have to take it to a main dealer first?

All advice welcome

Cheers

No. Only dead fish go with the flow

I don't know how common this is but when my son's FL2 had the rear diff noise it went in to the LR dealer as it was under extended warranty. When it came back they had done the rear diff and the front transfer box. I never saw the bill but the guy told us that the front box job was about £1700 and the rear diff about £600. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Morayjohny wrote:

So just back from Frank Ogg and Sons in Aberlour a well respected independent garage who took a look at my whine today.

Before putting her up on the lift the mechanic said it sounded like the rear diff but on looking underneath and listening for the sound he now believes it is the front transfer box, which doesn't seem to be a very common problem.

My question is do you think LR will contribute anything towards the replacement, assuming that I'd have to take it to a main dealer first?

All advice welcome

Cheers

They may but you would probably still have a LR dealer bill that was more than a LR indie doing it with no contribution.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi all! Thought we were going to join your exclusive club with our 2010 LR2 HSE I6 6AT petrol model at 37,000 miles recently. Heard a clunk when backing up the driveway and a mechanical whine started from the rear.

Initial dealer visit for service stated the rear diff (an old/original unit by the looks of it) was actually fine during all tests. A follow up visit (unrelated) the LR Tech also detected no noise.

A third, specifically noise visit (sounded awful. Like neighbor kids fart can Honda!) later the actual problem was discovered. Taped a Contour camera on the rear brake line prior to going for a spin. In the video it sounded cyclical, but hard to pin down the mechanical racket. Turns out the mid muffler resonator section had come apart from the inside out! The vehicle was out of warranty date but within mileage for warranty coverage and LR helped us out by covering >40% of the costs.

So so your due diligence...all noises aren't necessarily rear Diff related. Our LR2 has been great so far. Nothing out of the ordinary in 5 years except an OEM battery change. We do have an LR3/Discovery approaching 170k that has been more expensive to run many times over. We still really enjoy that one as well. Our Freely2/LR2 are cheap to run by comparison IMHO. Wait...you get 17in steel wheel options, diesel engines, manual transmissions, cloth seats, optional sunroofs and G4 kit!

Before i went for the diff bearings (which i was 99% sure was the fault). I first changed the wheels front to rear, as they were a different make of tyres. And the noise did not move to the front. Then i put it on 4 axle stands and drove it up listening with a long screw driver to the wheel bearings, prop bearings, transfer box bearings and confirmed the Diff bearings.
I have taken the diff unit out myself and split the Haldex, The oil in the haldex was only slightly grey ( so minimal clutch pack wear ) Will be replacing the Haldex filter and oil, and the diff is going off for Recon with upgraded bearings. I will report back with the results and if they are good I will mention the rebuild specialist.
The diff was out in 2.5 hours Working in a not so high garage. The hardest part was the propshaft bolts, ( once i realized i had to lift one of the front wheels to get the prop to turn then i could get the air gun on them with an "airgun" U/J ). Did not even have to move the exhaust.
As a safety note I found it best to ratchet strap the diff to the trolley jack with a block of wood in between to stop it slipping/falling.
I used a company called AB land rover in York (found them on ebay) for a few pence under £400 they arranged collection and re-delivery to and from my house, rebuilt the Diff supplied haldex and diff oil, all in 4 days.
The diff is now nice and quiet.
I cleaned out the Haldex unit and fitted a new filter. Before if I pulled out of a junction a bit quick I would hear a graunching noise from the rear, its now nice and quiet and the auto gear changes seem smoother.
The diff went back in with no problems and the haldex level rechecked easily.
SOME NOTES.
The offside drive shaft can be levered out easily but the nearside is harder as it is recessed, so with the offside one removed I just used a long thin punch through the centre of the diff to tap the nearside one out.
As I said before I left the exhaust on (but removal would make life easier).
I disconnected the rear hubs by just undoing the outer link arm bolts, Hand brake cable clamps and abs & pad warning wire clamps ( The Haynes manual says mark and remove the whole arms) I did not as although marked they never quite go back in same place causing the rear geometry to be out.
And don't forget when re-tightening the rear suspension to load it up first buy jacking it up under the hub until the car just starts to lift off the axle stands.

Interesting write up above...

When I did mine it was as per Austen's instructions (Bell Engineering) - No need to touch the rear hubs, or sensors.

I had to drop the exhaust by 20mm to allow easier access for the jack, diff removal and diff mounting bolts. Right shaft is easy, wedge a cold chisel in the gap and 'tap/prise apart' with a hammer. To remove the left drive shaft there is an access hole just on the top of the shaft entry. Enough to get a screwdriver in and ease out the shaft which is under tension with a circlip/spring - I found this to be a pain in the arse to do so the method above may be easier...

Took me forever to do the whole job ( lazy weekend) as I was on my own and didn't have a decent jack to balance the diif on when replacing. Hardest bits were the prop bolts removal, getting the left shaft out, and trying to balance the diff on a jack when refitting  Only dead fish go with the flow

Just proves that there's more than one way to skin a cat.
I presume Austin's method is to drop the diff low enough to remove one shaft then the other.
I thought about that but did not want to risk damaging the seals on re-fit.

Mike

I'm not suggesting I did it the 'correct' way, but it did work for me, albeit a pain in the arse...

Yep, as ever, always a different solution to the same problem  Only dead fish go with the flow

So front transfer box fitted today, thanks to Austen at Bell Engineering for supplying and Frank Ogg in Aberlour for fitting and also replacing front brake pads although £1000 poorer.

Guess it's only money 😁😁

Yep. If you want to get a more healthy bank balance, and free up your weekends to do something other than lay on your back getting covered in grease and rust-dust.......  Only dead fish go with the flow