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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Best method to remove rust?.... New disks. They are cheap and you'll feel safer.

Post #260172 11th Apr 2015 2:54 pm
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

There is a very easy way to remove rust which us not labour intensive. It's called electrolytic derusting. If you don't know about it PM me with your email so I can send notes to you.
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Just start saving food tins like baked beans and fruit.
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And no it's not leg pulling!!
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Auto and manual engines are identical, just the flywheel. My engine replacement was manual , I just changed the flywheels over,( now two years ago).
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Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #260183 11th Apr 2015 5:47 pm
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Hello Alex, that sounds like the simplest option.
Fred, thanks for the suggestion. If it was sat at home I'd probably take you up on the suggestion, but as it will be transported direct to the fixer's garage I'll have to leave it up to them. They will have to do whatever is necessary to get it through the MOT and I'd imagine they would just change the disks. Problem is, I don't have space at home for serious dismantling as our garage is full of all the essential junk that you accumulate over the years and it will never see a car again! Still, thanks anyway. Colin.

Post #260363 13th Apr 2015 12:22 pm
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Good afternoon folks,
Well, after much soul-searching I'm finally going to take the plunge and will be picking up my Freelander 2 on Sunday! Of course, it's broken (see earlier posts), but hopefully I can get it sorted out with the help of my local independant LR specialist (he always has loads of vehicles parked outside his workshop - I don't know if that is a good or a bad thing though, ha ha!
Anyway, I'm going prepared for a fight; after 14 months of standing I don't know how difficult it will be to move it as the discs are red with rust and the battery is totally dead. So the first job will be new discs and a battery and then we can look at the camshaft.
I'll keep you updated with progress and some photographs soon.
Best wishes, Colin.

Post #263118 8th May 2015 1:52 pm
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

Good luck Colin; keep us posted.
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #263132 8th May 2015 3:22 pm
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Thanks Fred. It will probably be a week until they can start to look at it, so in the meantime and I was thinking perhaps I should start to draw up a list of jobs that it would be useful to have done. Any thoughts are welcome! The things I've got so far are as follows (1) new discs and pads (2) new battery (3) renew rechargeable batteries in key fobs - I can do this bit myself as I'm handy with a soldering iron and circuit boards. One tyre has been more or less flat for a long period so I guess that may have gone permanently out of shape and may need changing.
Regarding work associated with the engine, would it be a good idea to get rid of the 14 month old diesel that has been standing in the fuel tank and have the fuel lines purged and fuel filters replaced? New exhaust cam and fuel pump is the starting point but would it also be worth changing the inlet manifold to avoid any issues with those plastic swirl flaps that I've read about elsewhere? I'm sure there will be loads of other things to consider, but please feel free with any other ideas or comments. Thanks, Colin.

Post #263191 9th May 2015 9:37 am
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

Ummm.

.
New heater plugs, EGR blank, remove flaps, plug vacuum pipe that operates flaps, cut extraneous steel off the lid brackets that hold wiring to the diesel oil filter, (helps future access for filter change), clean throttle body with aerosol brake cleaner, carefully inspect turbo hoses / pipes. Don't worry about old diesel, use original fuel filter for two days to collect any rubbish then fit new diesel filter.
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If you are competent you can easily do all the brakes yourself, do a search on the forum as all the technology comments on brake changing is here.
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New air filter; new cabin filter; use genuine LR to avoid problems, Dan at Duckworths will give you a good deal for little extra than aftermarket costs.
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Fit the extra earth lead from battery to engine, (all details on the forum).
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Why are you looking to change the fuel pump? These cost mega money.
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #263216 9th May 2015 1:13 pm
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

That gives me something to be going on with! I'd do the brakes myself; as a youngster I was my dad's apprentice as he battled with everything from fitting new wheel bearings or cv joints to lifting out engines to renew clutches on the old Leylands - mainly 1800 and 2200 landcrabs. On this occasion, as it's going in for engine repairs and will need an MOT before I can drive it, I think I'll have to leave that job to them. I guess it may work out cheaper though if I buy the disks myself off eBay or similar.
I'll hold back on the fuel pump - just though it might have been necessary and perhaps the cause of the camshaft failure in the first place. So is it generally best to blank off the EGR then? Thanks, Colin.

Post #263223 9th May 2015 3:16 pm
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

If you research on the forum our resident experts will be found to suggest that exhaust cam failure was a manufacturing design fault of a sharp corner leading to crack propogation. Late engines have revised cam part numbers.
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Egr blanking is a personal choice, do it and you may avoid expensive engine repair bills when carboned up bits break up and go thro the engine. Don't do it and you are helping the climate by reburning some exhaust giving cleaner emissions...
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #263225 9th May 2015 3:47 pm
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Ah yes, I'm familiar with that concept. So the revised cam isn't physically beefier (I couldn't work this out as I though a thicker cam would need different bearings), it just has smooth curves!
I'll think about the EGR; I suppose that's a decision I can make further down the line once I know the outcome with the engine as a whole. Thanks again, Colin. PS just about to set off to get it! Quite exciting really!

Post #263257 10th May 2015 8:16 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4341

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

Perhaps this has been answered elsewhere but if you blank off the EGR will the car still pass the MOT emissions test? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #263267 10th May 2015 10:01 am
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

On model years 2007 - 2010 a definite yes to passing the MOT. My examiner blanks his own cars egr's.
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On model year 2011 facelift onwards, blanking the EGR causes a fault code and a dash light which I understand is a fail , ( the car may go into limp mode anyway).
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #263273 10th May 2015 10:41 am
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Good afternoon,
Sorry! I've been a bit remiss at keeping you informed regarding this project, but it IS ongoing. Picked it up on May 10th using a friend's Defender with another friend's trailer. We went equipped for a battle getting it to move, but when we connected the Tirfor winch only one wheel was skidding on the gravel drive. A tap with a hammer released it and we had it trailered and ready to roll within an hour. Brought it back over the A68 - pretty slow in places with an all up weight of around 5 tons but the Defender coped very well. I couldn't stop grinning whenever I looked in the mirror and saw the Freely following behind! As it was a Sunday, we had to wait 'til next day to drop it at the garage. They haven't started work on it yet, but they have promised they will during this current week. I'll report back when i have more to tell.
By the way, I did try posting some photos but got the message 'Server hangup'. Any ideas anyone please?
Best wishes, Colin.

Post #265404 1st Jun 2015 2:30 pm
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Horsemaddad



Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Bishop Auckland
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Well, here we are again! Thought it was about time I updated you on this project as I've not posted anything recently. The Garage has been really busy with a backlog of work, but they have now set to with a will and things are happening. Some dismantling of the old engine revealed lots of metallic debris and, expecting there could well be plenty more that we couldn't see, we decided to go down the route of fitting a second hand engine. This was sourced and duly arrived from a reputable dealer in 4x4 spares and has just been fitted.
However, this morning, a pool of oil was discovered under the car. Further investigation has revealed a crack in the sandwich plate (upper sump I believe). I've advised the company that I bought the engine from and it seems likely that it will have to be stripped down to make the repair. Am I correct in thinking that to extract the sandwich plate you either have to (a) remove the engine from the car or (b) disconnect and remove the gearbox from the car.
Thanks for any advice you can give. Best wishes, Colin.

Post #270230 21st Jul 2015 10:02 pm
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black

Your comments don't make technical sense.
The sandwich plate is just a spacer, (albeit a complicated bit of casting), it doesn't do anything, isn't stressed; so it cannot crack by itself. it just makes up the space between the cast iron engine block and the steel sump pressing. The engines are Peugeot origin, maybe when they added the crank balancer shafts they had to spacer the sump off to allow the balancer unit fitment.
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So; why is it cracked? has the engine come from an accident damaged car? The sandwich is glued to the cast iron block, the steel sump is glued to the sandwich. The glue is so strong that the components have to be crow barred off and this damages them................(Ive been there, read the book, got the tee shirt..........)
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My advice would be to send the engine back and get another.
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Yes you are correct its gearbox off or engine out.
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #270250 22nd Jul 2015 9:53 am
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