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stooby



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: South Lanarkshire
Posts: 320

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Rimini Red
Throttle Body needs replacing

Hi Folks,

So having had the front transfer box go, tailgate switch and rear wiper motor go, at the weekend I suddenly got a 'system engine fault' message and 'special programs off' message.
The garage have had a look and reckon it needs a new throttle body.
Now, I don't have the error codes so I can't give you any more clues but can anyone tell me if this is likely?
I've done some searching on here and I see the throttle body mentioned a few times. I've no idea what's involved with either cleaning it or replacing it myself. The garage have quoted £341 which depresses me greatly.

Stuart

Post #229543 22nd Jul 2014 8:55 am
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Paul1966



Member Since: 21 Dec 2013
Location: Cannock
Posts: 308

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Izmir Blue

The throttle body is about £100 genuine parts,I replaced mine about a month ago and it's easy enough.there are 3 torx screws,a rubber hose and I think 2 electrical connections to remove and that's it job done,obviously refitting is the reverse.

Post #229548 22nd Jul 2014 10:26 am
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stooby



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: South Lanarkshire
Posts: 320

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Rimini Red

Thanks Paul1966. That's good to know.

Stuart

Post #229552 22nd Jul 2014 10:46 am
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roly



Member Since: 19 May 2013
Location: oxford
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Zermatt Silver

Replaced throttle body on mine yesterday £102 from Duckworthparts.co.uk email danroberts@duckworthlandrover.co.uk
mine is 4 years old 60000 miles.
No fault codes just a loud clicking niose after engine turned off. plus the engine jolted to a stop instead of shutting down smoothly.
Takes about an hour to change it, you will need a torx socket set.

Roly

Post #229585 22nd Jul 2014 7:18 pm
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stooby



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: South Lanarkshire
Posts: 320

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Rimini Red

Thanks Roly,

Roly and Paul, I have 2 questions:

1) Er....can either of you describe where the throttle body is?
2) Does the fact I have to ask question 1 suggest that I'd better let someone else do it as I don't know what
I'm doing?

There is a suggestion (from someone reading the error codes) that the EGR is stuck. Is that an easy job to fix?
(easy as in easy for an idiot like me).

Stuart

Post #229639 23rd Jul 2014 10:16 am
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Rgpeck



Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: Scotland
Posts: 44

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Hi Stooby,

I changed mine a few months ago and there was a good guide on here, do a search for it.

Cheers

Post #229657 23rd Jul 2014 5:51 pm
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stooby



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: South Lanarkshire
Posts: 320

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e XS Manual Rimini Red

D'oh! I had tried search and missed it first time
Round. Thanks for the pointer.

Stooby

Post #229663 23rd Jul 2014 6:46 pm
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shrek



Member Since: 30 Mar 2014
Location: morecambe
Posts: 1

England 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Santorini Black

Throttle body replaced today after starting to click on shut down £107 genuine part took about an hour to fit in all. Just to let you know that the back two torque screws dont need removing all the way out for the throttle body to be removed .

Post #237503 11th Oct 2014 9:30 pm
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Davidspect



Member Since: 03 Feb 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 25

My throttle body failed recently, fluttering noise after shutdown but no messages, was a bit lumpy on shutdown otherwise no other symptoms. If it still has the normal high pitched whine from the front after switching off its not the throttle body.

Sorry, just noticed the age of the original post.

Post #237520 12th Oct 2014 12:54 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4341

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

A landrover service manager told me that if your throttle body fails then the best thing (to get you home) is to disconnect the plug at the top of the unit. This ensures that the flap stays open, you will get some warnings on the engine management light as the engine will be running a bit lean but it will be driveable.

Post #237530 12th Oct 2014 10:04 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Quote:
A landrover service manager told me ...... disconnect the plug.......This ensures that the flap stays open...... the engine will be running a bit lean

And that was a LR service manager ??? Whistle Big Cry

Post #237535 12th Oct 2014 10:21 am
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EYorkshire



Member Since: 18 Nov 2010
Location: (!)
Posts: 4392

I hope the mechanics working under him are more knowlegeable Rolling Eyes

Post #237539 12th Oct 2014 10:44 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Indeed....

A diesel engine is by default a "lean" running engine.
The air flow is an open one, without any restrictions, and the RPM is varied only by the injected fuel quantity.

In FL2's diesel engine case, the throttle body is having only the following functions:
1. Helps stopping the engine more effectively on shutdown by blocking the intake air.
1.1. Stops the engine in case of diesel oil runaway.
2. Helps regenerating the DPF, if you have one, by restricting the air flow ONLY when regenerating, increasing in this way the EGT.

Post #237542 12th Oct 2014 10:53 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4341

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

If it's any consolation he now works for a non landrover dealer I believe. However in his defence it was a get you home measure.

Post #237551 12th Oct 2014 11:26 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Please, don't take it personally...
Besides the confusion between gasoline and diesel engines, also it can't be considered a real "get you home" measure because, as shown in many cases, if the toothed wheels inside get "shaved", the motor can't move the flap and, if the flap remains closed, in no way disconnecting the wires can solve the problem... Only dismantling the thing can solve it...

Post #237570 12th Oct 2014 3:26 pm
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