Gents

My wife's FL2 has a light squeaking when she's braking, I'm thinking its the pads getting low but I'd like a second opinion.

The car is in the stealer's on Thursday to have the fuel senders replaced and they said they would take a look at the brakes. I've never had to replace a set of pads before so I've no idea how much pad there is normally.

Some pics attached, thanks in advance!

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

My front discs and pads are only about 10% worn (fitted by previous owner). No noises at all UNTIL I am creeping slowly on tickover on to my drive or into a parking bay with light pedal pressure. Have taken them out, roughed them up with some emery cloth, lubed them with copper slip but that's made no difference at all. If they were more than 50% worn I'd change them but they are far too good to change at the moment so I'll put up with the barking from my dog every time the car pulls up on the drive and the looks from bystanders in Sainsbury's car park! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Front discs New=28mm min=26mm min pad thickness=2mm.
Rear disc New=12mm min=10mm min pad thickness=2mm.

Richard FL2 07 TD4 GS Auto
Ex 02 TD4 Auto

they look fine to me When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car

i would check the ware lip at the top of the disc if this is to excessive it will catch part of the brake pad and could cause a squeal i would check the disc if lip is excessive renue both discs and new pads hope this helps  rainy-city
xs

thanks for the info, floks. Cars in tomorrow will hopefully not too costly!

Pads and disks fine, apparently they couldn't recreate the squeak, Steve I think ill be taking the same route as you!

They also applied a software update for my haunted fuel senders, needless to say today the needle dropped 4 times, so back to the dealer again.

N

Steve D wrote:

My front discs and pads are only about 10% worn (fitted by previous owner). No noises at all UNTIL I am creeping slowly on tickover on to my drive or into a parking bay with light pedal pressure. Have taken them out, roughed them up with some emery cloth, lubed them with copper slip but that's made no difference at all. If they were more than 50% worn I'd change them but they are far too good to change at the moment so I'll put up with the barking from my dog every time the car pulls up on the drive and the looks from bystanders in Sainsbury's car park!

Well, nearly two years on and I've just cured it! I had fitted new rear discs, pads and shoes not long after I bought it. As I said at the time, the fronts were hardly worn and despite cleaning and lubing them several times I still had the squeal. Begrudgingly, I fitted another set of pads to the front. No difference! Tried re-lubing them but no joy. I bit the bullet and fitted new discs to the front as well and thought I had cured it until I pulled up on my drive and squeeeeak! I gave up in the end and put up with the noise. Every now and then when we had nothing to do I had the students strip the front discs and pads off, deglaze them, lube them and refit - it never cured it. Recently it was getting worse so, I fitted yet another set of pads (different make) and guess what? Yep, still had the squeal. Now, I'm a mechanic by trade and I run a motor vehicle training workshop so you can imagine my frustration at not being able to cure this noise on my own car. Anyway, I was out in it the other week with the wife and I commented that I had put yet another set of front brake pads on and still had the noise. "Are you bloody deaf?" she said. "That noise is coming from the back of the car" I had a WTF moment but I was still convinced that it was the fronts. Anyway, I stripped the rears off and found that the bottom anti-squeak shim was not, and never had been, fitted correctly! Annoyingly, I had got my trainer to check my rear brakes about a year ago as I was getting a 'clack' when I first went back and forth and dabbed the brake pedal. I told him it sounded like a pad floating about and to check all was okay. No problems, he reported.

Now, in my defence, I had never done the rears - I left that up to my students to do under the supervision of my trainer.

This is what I found....

Click image to enlarge

And this is how it should be.....

Click image to enlarge

Absolutely 100% definately cured now.

Sometimes, the old sayings are true.... If you want a job done properly, do it your f g self!

Oh, and that trainer left 8 months ago!

How true, I always do all my own repairs etc
I was a motor bike mechanic for 16 years I've seen a nuf bodges etc lol

Steve D wrote:

Steve D wrote:

My front discs and pads are only about 10% worn (fitted by previous owner). No noises at all UNTIL I am creeping slowly on tickover on to my drive or into a parking bay with light pedal pressure. Have taken them out, roughed them up with some emery cloth, lubed them with copper slip but that's made no difference at all. If they were more than 50% worn I'd change them but they are far too good to change at the moment so I'll put up with the barking from my dog every time the car pulls up on the drive and the looks from bystanders in Sainsbury's car park!

Well, nearly two years on and I've just cured it! I had fitted new rear discs, pads and shoes not long after I bought it. As I said at the time, the fronts were hardly worn and despite cleaning and lubing them several times I still had the squeal. Begrudgingly, I fitted another set of pads to the front. No difference! Tried re-lubing them but no joy. I bit the bullet and fitted new discs to the front as well and thought I had cured it until I pulled up on my drive and squeeeeak! I gave up in the end and put up with the noise. Every now and then when we had nothing to do I had the students strip the front discs and pads off, deglaze them, lube them and refit - it never cured it. Recently it was getting worse so, I fitted yet another set of pads (different make) and guess what? Yep, still had the squeal. Now, I'm a mechanic by trade and I run a motor vehicle training workshop so you can imagine my frustration at not being able to cure this noise on my own car. Anyway, I was out in it the other week with the wife and I commented that I had put yet another set of front brake pads on and still had the noise. "Are you bloody deaf?" she said. "That noise is coming from the back of the car" I had a WTF moment but I was still convinced that it was the fronts. Anyway, I stripped the rears off and found that the bottom anti-squeak shim was not, and never had been, fitted correctly! Annoyingly, I had got my trainer to check my rear brakes about a year ago as I was getting a 'clack' when I first went back and forth and dabbed the brake pedal. I told him it sounded like a pad floating about and to check all was okay. No problems, he reported.

Now, in my defence, I had never done the rears - I left that up to my students to do under the supervision of my trainer.

This is what I found....

Click image to enlarge

And this is how it should be.....

Click image to enlarge

Absolutely 100% definately cured now.

Sometimes, the old sayings are true.... If you want a job done properly, do it your f g self!

Oh, and that trainer left 8 months ago!

Well, the car is long gone now and so are the photobucket photos but it was simply a case of the rear anti-rattle shims not being fitted correctly. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Hello everyone i'm sorry if that's a dumb question but i'm still learning the basics, I just bought the Haynes manual and I think the time has come to replace my front brake pads do you think I need to replace my discs as well? (I don't have a micrometer)

I'm trying to make a list of all the tools i'll need to buy so i'd like to get your suggestions and more info on the screws and bolts I have to remove!

I'm also wondering what size and type of "guide pins" I see the tightening torques in the haynes manual (but the only precision given is that it's an allen bolt) but I can't find their type, same problem for the "Caliper mounting bracket bolts" the only information I found was the "disc retaining screw" which seems to be a T50.

I'm also wondering where to find the caliper mounting bracket bolts the manual says they have to be replaced every time the discs are changed.

So what I think I need is :
- Jack stands 2t or 3t(how many?)
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench for the caliper bracket bolts and for the wheel ( I'm not sure if I also need one for the small torque settings)
- Wrenches/Keys
- A tool to put the brake piston in place ( the manual of the brake pads says to not use the piston tool used in the haynes video?? https://oscaro.media/catalog/images/pdf/161/xzs158gb.pdf )
any advice is welcome
Thank you!

Your pads look to have plenty of meat on them, what makes you say you need to replace them?
Your discs have a lip on them, easy enough to replace them at the same time.
15mm socket for the caliper mounting bolts.
T50 Torx wrench for the disc retaining bolt.

Just jack up one side at a time. Leave the jack in place and put a stand in position for safety.

Undo the cap on your brake fluid reservoir, you should be able to push the piston in by hand.

Use brake cleaner to give everything a good soak. Use a brush when it is still wet, avoid creating dust. Although your covid mask will keep it out of your mouth and nose. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

I used to replace the pads myself on previous cars, & used to get the pads re-shoed with metal pads, much better & barely any dust compared to the standard pads & cheap.

Couldn't be stuffed these days, but have kept the rear pads from the car just in case I change my mind (first set to be changed on the car, at 60k km but that's mostly country driving, front pads are still ok).

There is plenty of life in your pads. The front pistons you can push back by hand, the rear is difficult. There is a tool for that. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

G clamp for pushing the pistons back