Thanks all for your responses. Much appreciated.

I have the car back and Liam at LR customer services has been great although his hands are tied with regards the warranty thanks to the dealer insisting the clutch failure could only be caused by me resting my foot on the clutch or putting it under extreme load by towing - so LR warranty will not help out.

Consequently I have still had to hand over a wedge of money to the dealer (although not the whole amount thanks to Liam) but will continue the fight with the dealer. If I cant get hold of the dealer principal (who I have been blocked from contacting so far) or have no joy there then I will go up to the holding group and rattle some cages there. I am spitting mad with this dealer and wont let it rest until I get this fully resolved to my satisfaction.

I am resisting naming and shaming the dealer at this point - at least until I have spoken to the dealer principal. (Coming) 2016 RR Evoque td4 180 HSE Dynamc
(Going) 2013 TD4 GS Auto - Santorini Black with black leather. Cold Climate, UK Lighting & Armrest Packs. Privacy Glass. LR Rubber Mats. Full size spare.
60 000 miles averaging 35mpg

(Gone) 2010 TD4 Manual GS - Stornoway Grey. Sold at 3yrs old & 64k miles. Final average consumption 39.2mpg.

I think you have a bad dealer.
Name and shame him on the forum.
Members need to know good as well as bad dealers.

Hope you resolve the issue soon.
chris

ps maybe a thread could be set up with names of good dealers and experiences
and a thread with bad ones with P ss poor service standards.

You mean a thread like this that has been running for ages

http://www.freel2.com/forum/dealership-feedback-vf12.html

chrisg.007 wrote:

I think you have a bad dealer.
Name and shame him on the forum.
Members need to know good as well as bad dealers.

Hope you resolve the issue soon.
chris

ps maybe a thread could be set up with names of good dealers and experiences
and a thread with bad ones with P ss poor service standards.

One question first, are you the original owner of the car? I ask this because if it was second hand, and the first owner didn't repsect the clutch, this could have a big bearing on things. A clutches life span can be determined by the way it is treated from early doors. Hammer a new clutch from new and it will have an effect on how it lasts.

What was the cause of the slipping? Early cars and some later, depending if the 'faulty' clutches lasted into later buit cars had issues where the clutch would slip between 1800rpm, and 2100/2200 rom, then recover.

Mine did this when towing, and only between these rpm points. After 2200rpm, you could throw what you like at it and it would never slip.

But DMF's on Freelander 2's are not as bigger problem as often made out on here. I am fast approaching 60k miles on mine and the original flywheel is in perfect order. I don't see how the flywheel can be blamed on this occasions.

If you had the symptoms like I exlplained above, then in my opinion you have a good cause for complaint against the dealer/LR.

But the days of clutches lasting 100,000 miles plus are long gone as they are not allowed to use certain materials in clutches, which reduces their life span.

We have 9 Audi's at work of various descriptions, and the ones that are past 80/90,000 miles have had the clutches replaced. Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

yes I am the original owner from new.

I became aware of the clutch intermittantly slippinga while before before the 40k service. At a guess a couple of months before so perhaps around 36k miles. However at the 40k service it was not reproducable and when the dealer (not the dealer who changed the clutch) said they couldnt get it to happen I was not surprised. It seemed totally random - sometimes just after changing gear but other times when crusing on the motorway and accelerating to pass another vehicle. But same rpm and same gear on the same road did not guarantee a repeat although it did seem more common when the car had been driven for at least 30mins so 'warm'. It was so subtle at times you were not even sure it had happened and you thought it might have been your imagination.

Mav71 wrote:

One question first, are you the original owner of the car? I ask this because if it was second hand, and the first owner didn't repsect the clutch, this could have a big bearing on things. A clutches life span can be determined by the way it is treated from early doors. Hammer a new clutch from new and it will have an effect on how it lasts.

What was the cause of the slipping? Early cars and some later, depending if the 'faulty' clutches lasted into later buit cars had issues where the clutch would slip between 1800rpm, and 2100/2200 rom, then recover.

Mine did this when towing, and only between these rpm points. After 2200rpm, you could throw what you like at it and it would never slip.

But DMF's on Freelander 2's are not as bigger problem as often made out on here. I am fast approaching 60k miles on mine and the original flywheel is in perfect order. I don't see how the flywheel can be blamed on this occasions.

If you had the symptoms like I exlplained above, then in my opinion you have a good cause for complaint against the dealer/LR.

But the days of clutches lasting 100,000 miles plus are long gone as they are not allowed to use certain materials in clutches, which reduces their life span.

We have 9 Audi's at work of various descriptions, and the ones that are past 80/90,000 miles have had the clutches replaced.

Makes me wonder sometimes if some clutch problems are actually 'release bearing' problems.

Imagine for a minute this bearing being affected by heat, and instead of sliding smoothly expansion causes it to offset ever so slightly and it bites into the shaft, or the other way around and the bearing tolerance is too small and if the shaft expands with heat it tightens. Thereby not allowing the pressure plate to return all the way so the full force of the clutch plate is not on the DMF.

Just a thought

flylr wrote:

yes I am the original owner from new.

I became aware of the clutch intermittantly slippinga while before before the 40k service. At a guess a couple of months before so perhaps around 36k miles. However at the 40k service it was not reproducable and when the dealer (not the dealer who changed the clutch) said they couldnt get it to happen I was not surprised. It seemed totally random - sometimes just after changing gear but other times when crusing on the motorway and accelerating to pass another vehicle. But same rpm and same gear on the same road did not guarantee a repeat although it did seem more common when the car had been driven for at least 30mins so 'warm'. It was so subtle at times you were not even sure it had happened and you thought it might have been your imagination.

Mav71 wrote:

One question first, are you the original owner of the car? I ask this because if it was second hand, and the first owner didn't repsect the clutch, this could have a big bearing on things. A clutches life span can be determined by the way it is treated from early doors. Hammer a new clutch from new and it will have an effect on how it lasts.

What was the cause of the slipping? Early cars and some later, depending if the 'faulty' clutches lasted into later buit cars had issues where the clutch would slip between 1800rpm, and 2100/2200 rom, then recover.

Mine did this when towing, and only between these rpm points. After 2200rpm, you could throw what you like at it and it would never slip.

But DMF's on Freelander 2's are not as bigger problem as often made out on here. I am fast approaching 60k miles on mine and the original flywheel is in perfect order. I don't see how the flywheel can be blamed on this occasions.

If you had the symptoms like I exlplained above, then in my opinion you have a good cause for complaint against the dealer/LR.

But the days of clutches lasting 100,000 miles plus are long gone as they are not allowed to use certain materials in clutches, which reduces their life span.

We have 9 Audi's at work of various descriptions, and the ones that are past 80/90,000 miles have had the clutches replaced.

Good drivers can make clutches last well over 100k. We've never replaced a clutch at work on several makes.

However, on the flip side, even a bad driver would struggle to make it slip at 40k. So in my opinion there is no doubt of a problem.

Have you asked for the original parts back? If so you could ask for a second opinion at a dealer with a better rep.

Also, if they won't let you speak to the DP, just walk straight into his office! Kick up a big enough stink in the showroom and he'll appear immediately, the last thing they want is an irate dissatisfied customer in their showroom! Mine: 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35
Family's: 2009 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto, Stornoway

Yorkshire - God's County

Did once read the clutch & DMF were modified in later models, and appear to have alleviated this problem? If I do recal correctly, can someone tell me when the modified ones were fitted from please.

I'm hoping my May 10 registered example has the mod'd design....

Quick update...

As soon as the dealer got their money just over a week ago all comms halted.

Services department didnt call me on Monday as promised to let me know when the dealer principal would get back to me.
They didnt send photos of the clutch into Land Rover warranty as promised.
The after care manager didnt call me as promised towards the end of the week.

Even with continuous pressure from Liam at Landrover customer services (who has been excellent) - dealer seems to have no interest in speaking to me again or following up with LR warranty. It seems even LR customer services are finding it hard to believe now bad this dealer is.

This has now been escalated within LR customer services and I also have the contact details of the dealers group company to escalate to..... (Coming) 2016 RR Evoque td4 180 HSE Dynamc
(Going) 2013 TD4 GS Auto - Santorini Black with black leather. Cold Climate, UK Lighting & Armrest Packs. Privacy Glass. LR Rubber Mats. Full size spare.
60 000 miles averaging 35mpg

(Gone) 2010 TD4 Manual GS - Stornoway Grey. Sold at 3yrs old & 64k miles. Final average consumption 39.2mpg.

flylr wrote:

Quick update...

As soon as the dealer got their money just over a week ago all comms halted.

Services department didnt call me on Monday as promised to let me know when the dealer principal would get back to me.
They didnt send photos of the clutch into Land Rover warranty as promised.
The after care manager didnt call me as promised towards the end of the week.

Even with continuous pressure from Liam at Landrover customer services (who has been excellent) - dealer seems to have no interest in speaking to me again or following up with LR warranty. It seems even LR customer services are finding it hard to believe now bad this dealer is.

This has now been escalated within LR customer services and I also have the contact details of the dealers group company to escalate to.....

45 k on a 59 plate from new and I've got a similar problem. Slipping at low revs in high gear and when accelerating hard in lower gears. Car is out of warranty now. Is there any point at all in challenging the dealer?

I've always I had main dealer servicing but I'm tempted to go independent now as I don't think the dealer deserves the business for what appears to be a common problem. I'm also tempted to live with it for a bit (can at least save some cash towards it) as you seem to have got a decent additional mileage from the onset of the issue. 30 years of motoring. All vehicles take to over 100k with no clutch issues. Next vehicle will not be a Landrover.

If you have genuine LR Dealer Servicing and go back to the Dealer at least you stand a chance of getting a contribution from LR towards the repair.

Still no contact from the dealer - and looks like their poor workmanship was the cause of me needing an AA callout to get the car started as per my other thread.
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14613.html


Talk about a kick in the teeth!! (Coming) 2016 RR Evoque td4 180 HSE Dynamc
(Going) 2013 TD4 GS Auto - Santorini Black with black leather. Cold Climate, UK Lighting & Armrest Packs. Privacy Glass. LR Rubber Mats. Full size spare.
60 000 miles averaging 35mpg

(Gone) 2010 TD4 Manual GS - Stornoway Grey. Sold at 3yrs old & 64k miles. Final average consumption 39.2mpg.