Indeed, some versions are equipped with a glow plug ECU instead of a simpler relay like most of us have.
See below the wiring schematic.

Do you have that relay? Did you get it when you bought the new engine?

Click image to enlarge

Excellent news, I wonder if that is a modification to the SD4 only or perhaps all models after a certain year/VIN number.
The pics I posted were for up to VIN 113896, my own VIN ends with 222646 so maybe a modification applies to mine also

I have the schematics from 113896 to 148520 and the ones from 148520 and up.
But I don't know up to how high, as at that moment they were the last....
And on both of them there wasn't yet implemented that relay...

The connector on my harness had nothing plugged in however it has the plastic locking horseshoe typical of connecting to an ecu. My replacement engine dates I think to early 2009 ( I'll see if the harness has a date code in the morning). The harness is different to a 158 Bhp at least because the front servo vacuum unit drives a actuator on the EGR valve whereas the same vacuum unit on a 158 drives the swirl valve flaps on the inlet manifold.

Edit - I checked my spare 190 engine harness, it is dated 16th May 2009, its official Landrover - I wonder which models / markets reciebed this spec?

Does this change beg the question of people having failures of the standard glow plug relay?

PS Ive still got all the 190 SD4 engine bolt on bits if anybody wants a power upgrade.  2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Before starting buy at least two new glow plugs, these should go in the cylinder nearest the alternator belt (oddly its no 4) and cyl 3. You can reuse any good glows in nos 1 & 2 as these can be reached at a later date with minimal dismantling.
It might be an idea to put a multimeter probe in the lead to no 1 or 2 glow and then put the ignition(?) on without starting the engine , it should show 12v for a few seconds to prove that the relay is working and the fuse ok..
Perhaps somebody could clarify if I am correct. I think Alex said that the glows are energised in initial 'ignition on' irrespective of ambient temperature and irrespective of the glow light showing on the dashboard.
I may edit my original post dependant on replies.

Quote:

All comments welcome.

Did you have any problems with actually removing the glow plugs? I have heard of a few horror stories where they have welded themselves into the head (albeit not on this engine).

fredastaire wrote:

the glows are energised in initial 'ignition on' irrespective of ambient temperature and irrespective of the glow light showing on the dashboard.

In reply to eurolandy I had no problems removing glows from either if my two engines. For reference the original engine was 3 years old 34k miles; the replacement engine was 3.5 years old from storage (laboratory run with glows probably run full time, engine hours unknown). Both engine components were 'as new'.
In reply to Alex; thanks again for your expert accurate input. I was wondering for other users how practically to prove that power is actually reaching the glows.
Thanks
Fred

Thanks for the post, changed my glowplugs this morning reasonably easy
What i found was i didnt need to remove air filter,and i didnt need any special tools 1/4 drive sockets and extensions.
for pulling caps of plugs i used a radio removal pin and put the 90 degree bend on it

stuarts the man wrote:

i didnt need any special tools 1/4 drive sockets and extensions.

When must the glow plugs be changed on an freelander 2 160 bhp?+

I guess nobody can advise a life of glows; it will depend upon how many engine starts have been completed at say 2 degrees and below ie how many times they have been 'lit up' with vengeance.
The problem is that there is no sensible way of checking them as the glows engine electric connector to the main engine harness is tucked away almost inaccessible at the front of the engine.
You are probably going to leave well alone until winter sets in and you have problems with starting; it might not occur for this or next winter so there's not much point in changing for change sake.
A gambling man wouldn't change yet.
Regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Top Mechanic , Fredastaire, had a new set of hot sticks since end of last winter, car struggled to start blew smoke and rattled like a bag of spanners at the start, local LRA tested the system and gave it the all clear. Not convinced , then spring came and life took over, found hot sticks on the back of my bench the other day and decided to fit them, steadied my self for removing all the front of the engine etc, then having had a FL1 and used that site, I decided to come to this site for a look see, and behold I found your post, top mechanic , replaced all hot sticks. I used a box spanner, saved dropping parts of 1/4 drive sockets etc. and here's a thing, I recently changed the fuel filter so I didn't want the expense of replacing it again, very carefully removed the filter but didn't drain it, refitted it and didn't need to bleed the system, started first time !!! So old sticks on bench, did a continuity test on them, I had done the same test on the new sticks and I got a reading, on the old ones nothing on all 4 of them So lets hope this winter starting is much better. Thanks again for the info,