For the next time I have to change my fuel filter on my FR2. Would it be OK to pre-fill fuel filter with diesel prior to fitting? Then no need to prime? Thought if I were to emmerse new filter in a bucket full of diesel prior to fitting, would save me priming filter.
Any advice would be appreciated  Landy has now gone.

Last edited by Boroboy on 24th Feb 2013 11:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Just filling the filter probably wont work and the engine will just turn over and will not start. I have changed many fuel filters on FL2 and each time have fitted it dry then used a home made hand pump" or squeezy bulb if you like" placed inline and pumped until it became hard, this takes the air out of the line.
Some times a little air is still trapped in the line and the engine takes a little longer to start. If this happens then usualy you can keep the engine running for a short tie and it will clear itself and all will be fine.

Like superspark says use a primer hand pump. You don't want to risk the HP pump or the injectors running dry. I got a complete kit for doing multiple types of car and it has a bleed valve valve like this:-

Click image to enlarge

superspark wrote:

Just filling the filter probably wont work and the engine will just turn over and will not start. I have changed many fuel filters on FL2 and each time have fitted it dry then used a home made hand pump" or squeezy bulb if you like" placed inline and pumped until it became hard, this takes the air out of the line.
Some times a little air is still trapped in the line and the engine takes a little longer to start. If this happens then usualy you can keep the engine running for a short tie and it will clear itself and all will be fine.

JST wrote:

Like superspark says use a primer hand pump. You don't want to risk the HP pump or the injectors running dry. I got a complete kit for doing multiple types of car and it has a bleed valve valve like this:-

Click image to enlarge

If you opt to get a single bulb type, make sure you get the right size for the FL2.

Unless you have picked up bad fuel or are doing more than 15,000 miles a year you will be fine

Unnecessary quote removed
Please click the above text to find out why

Must have picked up some bad fuel then. Unless dealer didn't change it. Car was suppose to have been fully serviced last April at a cost of £460 (have receipts), from main dealer. Service inc fuel filter. We bought it in Aug, from April until now, it had covered 5k. I will try my best never to visit a dealer, unless I have too. Next service, I will provide parts & have my local trusted independent change them & stamp service book at a fraction of the cost of a dealer If filter was to clog up again, I will prob change it myself. Would be happy to service it myself, but want to keep my service book stamped. Depending on how long we keep it too.
Think I will open the old filter up, see how it looks. Just out of interest.
Do you know the location of the pollen filter? Is it in usual spot, behind glove box? Something I will do myself.
Had some great fun in it today on the icy/snow covered roads Think I'm coming around to it Don't think my wife will be driving it much in the snow
Thanks. Landy has now gone.

That's it with a dealer/garage doing your service, you have to take their word that they have changed the filters and its at your cost if they haven't.

Last edited by hinchy on 20th Jan 2013 10:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total

What a lot of people dont realise is that once a car is out of the warranty then having your car serviced by an independant will in the end save you a whole lot of money compaired to have it main dealer serviced.
If you were to add up how much you have saved over several years by an indepentant, this will be much higher than the little extra you are likely to get if you had it done at the main dealers when you come to sell or trade in.
Do the sums and see for yourself.

Totally agree & in my exp, better service too

Last edited by Boroboy on 24th Feb 2013 11:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Just changed my fuel filter, submerged new filter in bucket of clean diesel till bubbles stopped, fitted it, engine started 1st touch, job done, no problem.

Eric,
Great. Think that's the way I will go next time it needs changing
Thanks for info. Landy has now gone.

Boroboy, you might give Teme Valley LR in Gateshead a look. They always seem to get good write-ups on here and undercut the main dealers. Did my B Service this week and I've no complaints. I assume they're relatively local to you.

Past master,
Yes not too far off. If my car was still under manufacturer’s warranty, think I probably would use them for servicing. It's not, so will use my local independent now. If I need to change the fuel filter again in-between servicing, will do it myself. Don't mind.

I've not found Land Rovers used car warranty to be of any good to me. All 5 faults I've experienced within 6 months of ownership, including noisy front wheel bearing. None covered. As far as I can gather, manufacturers warranty (first 3 years), would have covered a noisy wheel bearing.

Thanks for your input anyway. Landy has now gone.

Hi
May I add some notes on changing and bleeding the diesel filter.
1/.Its very important to make sure that you fill the filter from the 'dirty side' so please dont go immersing in a bucket. Its very easy to 'back fill' up the filter water drain hole and you dont need expensive priming ballons, its all covered under my posting within Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Changing the diesel filter.
2/. try to buy an OEM filter because of the 'quick change connectors'.
there was the other question about the pollen / cabin filter.
3/. Take a look on you tube as somebody out there has done a video clip. Then ignore the bit about removing the glovebox, its accessible easily without removing. Just take my advice and wait till a warm day; I changed mine in sub zero temperatures and broke a clip on the filter door access panel.
Hope this helps. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
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