Hi all, oil change was done on my Freelander 2 TD4_e and when it was restarted, the oil warning light stayed on, as far as I can tell, the warning light went off at about 2500 rpm but as soon as the engine returned to idle, the warning lamp came back on.
Then, whilst ticking over, the engine stalled and when they tried restarting it, it just sounds flat like the cam belt has snapped, the top cam is turning as the belt was seen to move behind the cover but there is no compression!
The oil is OE as is the filter and the level is bang on!
It's like the lifters have packed up or the cam shaft has broken? Any body had this problem before?

there is a known camshaft problem, but I think it affects the drive to the fuel pump not the belt
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10702.html?highlight=camshaft

I dont think a belt problem has been reported on this forum...yet At work
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Awesome, cheers fella.

I am in more tune with my TD5 as its a lot simpler

Will take a look at thread.

Update. both cams are fine, belt is fine, checked the the cams at both ends just to be sure, with the top plastic cover removed from the rocker and both the vac & fuel pump off, the cams rotate as usual!
Poured oil directly into rocker but still no joy.....sounds very much like the hydraulic lifters have decompressed when turning the engine over....vehicle is with me now and this is getting confusing!
When turning over, it sounds exactly like the belt has snapped or the lifters have packed up and wont re-prime?

Anyone heard of this issue before?

If the oil warning light is on then youve got no pressure, no pressure means the hydraulic tappets wont have an oil feed so wont work properly.
You need to find out why the pressure has suddenly gone, a fault in the new filter maybe? stuck relief valve? / non return?

Turned engine over with cover removed, have plenty of oil pressure now and the oil light goes off when cranking......I think originally the chap who changed the oil filter may have disturbed the plastic feed pipe that sits below the actual paper gasket.....thats why the oil light stayed on and then eventually the engine cut out.

Thinking it may be a lifter issue, have trid cranking and turning engine by hand to see if I can prime the lifters but it still sounds as flat as a witches when you try to start it!

Can't find any posts anywhere with people having complete lifter failure, just a ticking noise.

If youve now got full oil pressure back the tappets should self prime.

Right step back !
Is the oil the correct grade ? I know you said it was OE, BUT if its the wrong spec it will cause the tappets to jack UP and decompress your engine ! it may also cause a pressure relief valve to fully open and stick ! causing loss of oil pressure.
A cold engine when reved with fresh oil is the time to jack the lifters up.
Was a low viscosity oil used or did you try something thicker ?

Now if its a manual you may be able to tow start BUT has the cam belt timing been checked to make sure it hasn't jumped a tooth or more ? By tow starting it can raise the compression and force the valves shut.
this used to be very common with many engines a few years back and either tow starting or putting paraffin in the oil to thin the oil would allow a start then flush and drain or on a petrol car adding oil to the cylinders used to help.


Its unusual for the tappets to decompress and still not start !

Cheers for that, will try in the morning.

It's a manual and before I give it a try tow starting, I'll see if I can get hold of a timing belt pin set, my biggest worry was that if the lifters have failed in either open or closed so to speak, then the valves could have been damaged?

I've heard the sound an engine makes when the cambelt breaks and this sounds just the same albeit the cambelt and both cams are still in one piece and look OK.

This pressure release valve? Is it something that be got at easily?

Thanks

I thought you should never attempt to tow a 4x4

If the lifters got empty and not opening valves any more there should not be any more damage to them.If they expanded and keeps the valves always open there is probably damage to valves.If you have valve cover disassembled try to push the lifters with a screwdriver - if you are able to push them easily there is no oil inside and the lifters are not opening valves.

From what I've know, the valve's travel/cam's lobe is much higher than the difference between the lifter pressed and relaxed (lifter's travel). So the valve's lift will be much smaller when the lifter is pressed (without oil), but it'll exists.
Otherwise will be a nonsense, as nobody stays to fill the lifters before installing... They should fill by themselves.
For example: The travel of hydraulic lifters is, generally, between 2-5 mm when empty. Taking into consideration that they are usually working in the middle third of their travel and are pre-tensioned, for sure the valve lift/cam lobe is more than 3-4 mm in height.

You are right Alex but the problem is in the valve timing - with empty lifters the intake valve opens too late (and with small lift) and closing too soon so only small amout of air gets into cylinder resulting in low compresion and no start.Towing should help as you get more cranking speed...but try it on your own risk

oldgeezer wrote:

Right step back !
Is the oil the correct grade ? I know you said it was OE, BUT if its the wrong spec it will cause the tappets to jack UP and decompress your engine ! it may also cause a pressure relief valve to fully open and stick ! causing loss of oil pressure.
A cold engine when reved with fresh oil is the time to jack the lifters up.
Was a low viscosity oil used or did you try something thicker ?

Now if its a manual you may be able to tow start BUT has the cam belt timing been checked to make sure it hasn't jumped a tooth or more ? By tow starting it can raise the compression and force the valves shut.
this used to be very common with many engines a few years back and either tow starting or putting paraffin in the oil to thin the oil would allow a start then flush and drain or on a petrol car adding oil to the cylinders used to help.


Its unusual for the tappets to decompress and still not start !

npinks wrote:

I thought you should never attempt to tow a 4x4

never tow an auto. esp if its in park.

there is often a way of putting the gearbox into 'tow mode', or the drive shaft can be removed from rear and the front lifted.
not sure whether this works on fl2 does the haldex need oil pressure? At work
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