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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > What tools do i need before for front/rear pad replacement?
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majorguk



Member Since: 15 Nov 2011
Location: no where
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Zermatt Silver
What tools do i need before for front/rear pad replacement?

Morning all,

Planning on replacing the front brake pads this weekend. Before i get stuck in and removing wheels what tools do i need to do this.

I have the usual sockets, allen key socket set, axle stands, jacket. Is there anything unusual needed?

I have genuine pads so do i need to copper slip them to stop squeal?

Graeme

Post #151101 14th Aug 2012 11:38 am
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pcheaven



Member Since: 19 Jan 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 1459

United Kingdom 

for the rears, the usual suspects, which you appear to have.- this is an easy and quick job.
I have never done the front - would assume the same..... 

Post #151103 14th Aug 2012 12:24 pm
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Apache



Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 126

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Indus Silver

Have you seen the Disco break bible? They are quite similar (but not the same - different handbreak arrangement etc).

To get the callipers off you need a 12 sided socket CF the usual 6 sided ones.

That is about it, other than usual tools. I have one of the large Halfords Professional sets and it has everything I needed.

If they are like mine a wire brush and can of WD40 not a bad plan.

Post #151107 14th Aug 2012 1:01 pm
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90BHP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2007
Location: Half Way along the road on the right
Posts: 11

United Kingdom 

Always nice to have a way of compressing the pistons back into the calipers. Not done a freelander, but a block of wood and G clamp normally works Thumbs Up "To finish first, one first has to finish"

Post #151117 14th Aug 2012 1:48 pm
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ps_bond



Member Since: 13 Aug 2012
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 

A bit late for your weekend, but perhaps relevant.

Had an 08 TD4 up on axle stands this weekend as the dealer had claimed 67% wear on front pads.

21mm socket for the alloys, jack, 2 axle stands (I had both wheels off).
Pliers to remove the sizeable spring clip holding the outboard pad & static part of the caliper.
Thumbnail and 7mm Allen key to remove the floating section of the caliper.
Cut wire coathanger to hang caliper from the suspension.
11mm spanner or socket to open the bleed nipple.
Caliper spreader (luxury item - could have done it with a G clamp).
Pads, copper grease, brake cleaner spray.

The instructions I had claimed that undoing one pin would allow the caliper to pivot; not a chance, there's a large chunk of metal in the way, so I undid both pins (same instructions did not mention the spring clip). Pulled the pads (which had the unequal chamfers on them) and measured what was there - 7mm still. With a starting point of 10mm. Not greatly amused.

Put everything back together, put the new pads on the shelf for now.

Ah well, next time it'll be faster to do.

Post #151697 20th Aug 2012 2:51 pm
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majorguk



Member Since: 15 Nov 2011
Location: no where
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Zermatt Silver

cheers bond thats perfect.

Still fitted the pads yet, however i'm off next week so must be able to find the time to do Very Happy

Post #151778 21st Aug 2012 8:22 am
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ps_bond



Member Since: 13 Aug 2012
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 

Forgot to mention the torque wrench...

This weekend I might take the back wheels off, just in case the dealer really meant the rear pads. I'll also see if I think I need a caliper rewind tool for them - I've seen varying reports.

Honestly, Defenders are much easier Smile

Post #151829 21st Aug 2012 6:21 pm
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majorguk



Member Since: 15 Nov 2011
Location: no where
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Zermatt Silver

Okay just done the pads all round.

Fronts as described, cheers PS Bond.

The rears you need:-

sockets and spanners and a wires brush only. The clips that are supplied, two have small holes in the edge these are for the passenger side, the two without holes are for the drivers side.

The front pads wore evenly on both sides. however the rears were a disaster in terms of wear. both iner pads hard less than 1/3rd left while both outer's were bearly touched. so when i replaced them i gave the runners a good scrap and the seat clips a good dose of copper slip to help them keep moving.

Thanks for the help everyone

Graeme

Post #153833 6th Sep 2012 10:50 am
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majorguk



Member Since: 15 Nov 2011
Location: no where
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Zermatt Silver

also forgot to say this was not a too difficult job and just over two hours to do everything once i had all the tools ready.

Graeme

Post #153834 6th Sep 2012 11:04 am
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superspark



Member Since: 24 May 2009
Location: Devon
Posts: 877

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Izmir Blue

Pictures in my gallary if your intrested

Post #153864 6th Sep 2012 1:26 pm
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superspark



Member Since: 24 May 2009
Location: Devon
Posts: 877

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Izmir Blue

Pictures in my gallary if your intrested

Post #153865 6th Sep 2012 1:26 pm
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