After some difficult starting problems in the very cold weather the other month, I decided to change the glowplugs.
This, hopefully, will help others tackle what turned out to be a lengthy job, by highlighting the areas I had trouble with.
[Note, if I mention left or right, I mean that you are standing looking at the engine bay from the front, i.e. its not from the usual vehicle reference of sitting in the vehicle looking forward].

Firstly, get yourself a set of new glowplugs, my local LR dealer wanted something like £10.99+tax, so I got my NGK ones from Ebay for approx £35 (inc postage).
Then you'll need a gasket set for the inlet manifold, this is the set my local LR dealer supplied for my 57 plate TD4 S (might be different for later models) and cost me £15.86 (inc tax):



Print out a copy of LR workshop manual for removing the inlet manifold (thanks for Alex_Pescaru) from here: https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...access.zip
Follow this as your basic instructions but they could do with a few more words to helps us out.

Next think about your tools as, although I have been doing home mechanics for 30 years now, I still had to pop out and buy a couple of things to help out and still need to buy something to finish it off (more in a minute).

Make sure you have a 8mm socket, BUT, it must either be a long reach one or you must have a 1/4" drive extension bar. This is for the bottom right inlet manifold bolt that is out of sight. I had a standard 1/4" 8mm socket but only an adapter to 3/8" drive for a 3/8" drive extension bar. The adapter was too wide to fit down there area, so I went and bought one of these as its the only thing I could get on a Sunday around here:



But as I say, a 1/4' drive extension bar would be cheaper.

The next thing to make sure you have is a 5mm allen key head drive, this is what I ended up using:



Its got a 5mm hex drive in a small socket (red tape made sure it didn't fall out), then the 3/8" adapter onto an extension bar. You need this to get to the lower allen head bolt that holds the rigid Exhaust Gas Recycling pipe at the back of the engine on the right hand side. The pipe comes over the right hand side of the engine and connects to the inlet manifold at the front. This just about shows the bolt holes with the pipe removed:



The final, and for me the bit that really wound me up, is a tool for handling the large spring clip around the large plastic pipe that takes air from the air filter box, across the top of the engine to disappear down the left hand side to the turbo. In the picture below, you'll see it on the left of the jubilee clip. I ended up temporarily using a jubilee clip until I can find the correct tool to manipulate the spring clip back on.



To be continued......

I did mine not so long ago, and what a job just to replace them! I did not take so many parts off like your pics tho, I cheated and managed to wiggle things around to get to the plugs. And some of those connecters are a right arse to get off!

Good effort with the pics too, my hand got too dirty to use the camera so gave up!!

Thanks for this. Yes, those clips are a sod.....I find I can usually get them on and off with a pair of pump pliers. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

So, the first thing to do (after the usual battery disconnection etc etc....) is remove the air pipe from the air filter box that crosses the top of the engine.
1. Remove the small nut (using a 10mm spanner) the holds its support bracket to the engine cover (situated at the back on the right hand side under the air pipe).
The, using a suitable tool for the pescie spring clips, move the 3 spring clips off each joint onto a portion of pipe next to the joint.
When removing the air pipe, you'll probably find it contains a lot of engine oil as it has the crankcase breather pipe connected to it at the back right hand side (one of the pescie spring clips).

2. Then remove the engine cover by the two 8mm bolts visible towards the front and then unclipping the back by pulling up sharply (clips onto 2 ball joint fixings underneath).

Now, following the LR Workshop Manual:

3. Remove the crankcase breather pipe from the back right hand side of the engine. One end is currently disconnected from the main air pipe removed first. The connection is a quick release type, actuated by pressing recessed button on the wide ring around it and then pulling off away from you. Again this pipe will probably contain engine oil so beware of drips, etc.

4. Remove the rigid Exhaust Gas Recycling pipe that comes over the right hand side from the rear of the engine to the inlet manifold. Remove the bolt holding the pipe clamp on top of the rocker cover. Remove the two 10mm nuts from the clamp at the inlet manifold end. Then the fun starts the two allen head bolts at the back are difficult ones to get to so beware and don't drop the lower one as I found I was working with my finger tips out of sight.

Removing this pipe revealed a lot of carbon build up which I scrapped away prior to re-assembly:



and in the inlet manifold:



In the LR Workshop manual, it ambiguously states "DISCARD THE COMPONENT", as it is before the pipe removal I don't think its the pipe. It might be the nuts and bolts but I re-used mine as it isn't clear what need to be replaced as there aren't any gaskets on this pipe. It might be the pipe itself - not sure???

5. Next disconnect the wiring harness over the rocker cover and lay back towards the front left of the engine bay. 4 connections on the fuel injectors, 1 connection on the fuel supply rail and one connection on the fuel filter top pipe.

6. Remove small fuel return pipes from the top of the rocker cover. Each one comes off the top of each fuel injector. My connections were made up of two pieces: centre section in black plastic with the other in green plastic with two outer green tabs showing. slide the centre black section up and then I used a small screwdriver under the raised black centre section to lift the whole connection off the fuel injector. Then pull each pipe section away from the plastic clips moulded into the inlet manifold, and finally, disconnect the other end of the pipe assembly from the main fuel return pipe. This is like the crankcase breather pipe before, it has a built in quick release button built in so press and pull apart. Note cover all open ends appropriately to prevent dust and dirt getting in whilst dis-assembled.

7. As in the LR Workshop manual, disconnect the engine breather pipe that comes up over the fuel filter from below the inlet manifold. Only the one end is required to be removed and thats on top of the rocker cover on the left hand side. Use a small screwdriver to lift one half of the spring clip from the other side of itself and it'll spring open (I used pincers to close it again on re-assembly). Move the pipe to the front of the engine bay and lay it down behind the radiator out of the way.

To be continued....

Last edited by exmilade on 12th Mar 2012 2:37 pm. Edited 1 time in total

great pictorial on what to do, keep them coming

Defo needs to be a sticky thread as more and more will have this issue

i thought about that, but over time, we are going to end up with the first 2 pages of sticky,

a search will bring the result up

Maybe A new page with DIY Maintenance then?

I think that could be an idea or a Wiki page like Disco3

8. Remove the Fuel Filter front cover plate, which is held on by 4 10mm nuts. Note that it also has a cable tie holding it onto the main alternator positive cable running across it underneath. This is a little fiddly but I decided to cut the cable tie to enable the plate to be removed from the engine bay.

9. Disconnect the four pipes from the Fuel filter and stow away if possible. Each connection is a quick release system again, although one has buttons either side that both need to be pressed in where the others only have one button to press. The two pipes coming from the left can be removed from the retaining clip(s) and pulled out from under the aluminium pipe (AC I think) and they stay off to the left out of the way - remember cover ends to prevent contamination.

10. Remove the Fuel Filter by removing the three allen head bolts holding it down. Stow away from the vehicle bearing in mind there is likely to be some fuel spillage as you move it. Again cover to prevent contamination.

11. remove the plastic sub cover across the fuel filter mounting bracket. This is just held by a plastic plug so be careful to preserve the plastic plug for re-use.

12. Remove the TORX screw holding the Oil Dipstick tube to the fuel filter mounting bracket.

13. Remove the fuel filter mounting bracket, held on by 4 x 10mm bolts (2 from the top and 2 down the bottom).

14. Remove the aluminium casting that the fuel filter mounting bracket bolts to. This is held on by 4 x 13mm bolts. 2 are obvious, the third not so and the fourth is almost impossible to see and has to be found by feel. Its positioned lower right of the plate and is just accessible to the left of the inlet manifold throttle housing and behind a pipe. Persevere and you'll find it.

15. Remove the two or three electrical connectors from around the inlet manifold throttle body.

16. Loosen the large jubilee clip that attaches the rubber inlet pipe to the lower aluminium section of the inlet manifold throttle body. The rubber pipe stayed connected to the rigid air pipe coming from under the engine somewhere - presumably from the intercooler.

17. Hidden behind the inlet manifold throttle body between it and the engine casing is a small 13mm bolt that secures the inlet manifold throttle body to a support bracket. Get to it looking from the right hand side, apart from being round the back you should see it and get to it quite easily.

18. Then loosen and remove the 7 8mm bolts holding the inlet manifold to the engine. 5 are easily got to, but, the two lower ones are not visible. The lower left one is easy to get to at the bottom of the left had inlet tube of the inlet manifold. The lower right one is in a similar place but has a lot of metal work around it and thats where I needed a long reach 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive bar.
All the 7 bolts are captive in the plastic inlet manifold, so don't worry about getting the off and back in on re-assembly.
The inlet manifold should now pull clear of the engine to look like this:



and



19. As in LANDY19840's pictures you'll find the glowplugs down the bottom. The electrical connections are just push on/pull off caps, so pull them off to look like this (glowplug ends circled in red with caps lying next to them):



In the above photo you can also see the two bolt holes (below the two left hand glow plugs) that hold the aluminium plates under the fuel filter mounting bracket (use this to help you find the right hand one).

Also, you can see the metal bracket protruding forward of the engine that supports the inlet manifold throttle body by the single bolt.

Do feel free to use any of my pics

20. Using a small ring spanner remove the old glow plugs and fit new ones - electrically testing them sometime before to make sure they aren't faulty before the fitting process. Refit the electrical cap connections by pressing them back on.

21. The old inlet manifold gaskets/O rings come off by hand. Clean up the head surfaces that the gaskets/O rings mate to. Fit ALL the new gaskets/O rigs to the plastic inlet manifold.

22. Refit the inlet manifold to the engine and engage the 7 bolts. Tighten them all progressively and evenly in order to push the new lower gasket/O rings into their recesses.

23. The rest of the re-assembly is just the reverse of the dis-assembly, however for me, the final large pescie spring clip around the air pipe from the air filter caused me grief for a long time.
Refitting of the fuel return pipes (the small green and black plastic connectors) should be done carefully. Place back on the fuel filter outlet pipes, use the green tabs to make sure they are seated correctly and then the centre black section slides down to lock them on.
Unlike fitting a new fuel filter (that requires to be pre-filled with fuel), I found the engine fired immediately after re-assembly.

Fingers crossed it'll mean the engine starts faultlessly in really cold weather.

I hope this helps some of you to do the job themselves. Its not a difficult job, but, it does take sometime to complete - probably 6 hours in the end but I did take my time to make sure I didn't break plastic parts (which often happens to me) and clean things before re-asembly. My main tip is to make sure you have a means to move those pescie spring clips (normal pliers are fine for the two smaller ones on the air filter housing and crankcase breather pipe) but the big one needs a larger tool.

Cheers
Ade

Great work, exmilade. Really useful for those about to undertake this work. Poke it, Poke it, make it do it again!!

Gone - 2008 Freel2 HSE Santorini Black
Hello - 2010 RRS TDV6 3.0 HSE Santorini Black

Hi...
Is really necessary to replace the inlet manifolds gaskets?

Thanks....

Just done my Glow plugs yestuarday as it would not start at -9 last Tuesday, I removed the old plugs to find that none of them were working what a horrible job to do.

does any one know when the glow plugs should work as my freelander does not have a delay if you press the start button the engine will just crank until it starts. The dealer advised me to press the ignition on when cold before depressing the clutch.

I think I may also have a start button fault ie sometimes the ignition one stays on when the engine is switched off, if I then press the start button quickly it turns off.