There has been a few posts on this forum regarding the issue of the dashboard trip milometer, information display resetting and the key fob being partly ejected when trying to start the engine. I understand this has been covered by a software fix (Technical Bulletin) at the dealers. This has been described on this forum as an inconvenience rather than a major issue, hence I have not paid a visit to the dealer yet.

However, this morning when trying to start the car, the key fob ejected (as it occasionally does but only now and then) but this time it didn’t cause the trip or information display to reset. Instead, I got an amber warning on the dash and a readout on the info display telling me that the Terrain Response was inoperative. Car started after that but was very sluggish (only minus four degrees at home last night but quite a wind chill factor). I managed to reset the warnings by stopping the engine and reinserting the key fob. Over the last week or so I’ve noticed that the car is sometimes sluggish to start and put this down to a battery which is possibly well past its best (It’s the original Exide and has lived through four and a half winters now, the last two being quite cold for this country).

I’ve heard of horror stories about Terrain Response faults costing around £700 to fix but in my case, I wonder if it’s a case of low battery voltage causing spurious error warnings. Anyone had anything similar?

I may invest in a new battery in the morning (Varta E44).

Regards,

Chris

If you have a cheap dc volt meter you could check the voltage at the battery with out starting he engine. make a note of the voltage
Now turn on the ignition but dont start the engine. Turn on the head lights and leave for 3 minutes, then repeat voltage test accross battery. If the battery is good there shouldnt be much of a drop in voltage, if there is then the battery is low and needs charging or one or more of the cells have gone down.
Each cell is arround 1.2 volts your battery should hold about 13 .2 volts or there abouts, if its falls below 12v with no load then you should get it checked out, if batery voltage is ok then theres some thing else wrong.

Superspark - that is one of the most practical usggestions I have seen on this forum. Very simple and it sounds like you know what you are talking about. Voltage is one thing, but the trick is obviously re-cehcking it after 3 minutes with headlights on (ie: big load) I guess. Nice tip to lock away in the grey matter - thanks.

This exact methood I have used many times on various friends cars and the like and it has proved to be true every time. People I know have gone and had new starter motors fitted but still had the same problem " the battery" If only they had checked the simple things first they could of saved them selves a lot of money.
Its true that a starter turning very slowly could be the battery but more often than not its a bad earth "lose connection" There are various battery testing tools you could buy but some are expensive. Some batteries have built in led status which is very usefull but many do not which will leave you guessing. Theres always some who will take advantage of this and try to rip you off

Update

Changed the battery this morning. Having sat overnight (quite mild last night only -1Deg C) the battery voltage was 11.82Volts. Dropped when putting load on but surprisingly started after some hesitation.

As for the Terrain Response warnings………..Fingers crossed.

Regards,

Chris

I'm amazed it even cranked at 11.82 volts.
Yes, it will drop with a load on, but anything anywhere near 12v is no good. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

superspark wrote:

~clip ~
Each cell is arround 1.2 volts your battery should hold about 13 .2 volts or there abouts, if its falls below 12v with no load then you should get it checked out, if batery voltage is ok then theres some thing else wrong.

Last edited by dunroof on 14th Feb 2013 8:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total

dunroof wrote:

LRs hate anything but a fully charged and functional battery, period.

JST wrote:

I am wavering between a Bosch Silver HSB 110 and a Varta F21 AGM. Both are 800cca and 80 ah.

Interesting! Thanks Alex...I just hadn't thought of that...damned clever this electronics thing! It still has the original battery on it and although it has only done 30k it is nearly 5 years old and spluttered a bit (as well as the HDC warning) in -7 the other day. The Bosch HSB 110 it is then! John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Don't assume... Have a look on the battery.
If it says somewhere on the label something like "AGM" or "VRLA", then it's an AGM one.
Only if not buy a standard one.

I have checked, it is a standard Exide battery.  John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

I bought my FL2 a year ago with a new battery just fitted. Is there a way I can find out whether it should have an AGM or standard battery? Alex ? - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.

Few FL2s have AGM batteries fitted... Most of them were with standard flooded type.
Have the dealer to read your default (as built) Car Configuration File.
But I doubt that they will be able to tell. The CCF's location/address that specify the battery's type is not among the one displayed on a normal diagnostic session, nor available for changing and/or personalisation.