Hi,New to the forum.

Just bought a 07 Freelander 2 manual diesel SE.

When I stop and get out, removing the key, shut the doors, the footwell and boot light stays on. It only goes out if I lock it. Means I cannot leave it in my locked garage, unlocked, saving the mirrors a cycle ect

Also, can the battery in the key be easily changed. Key range leads me to suspect fob battery

Paul

you should find that after a short time they will go out as will the interia light that what happens with mine  rainy-city
xs

Irrespective of whether it is locked or unlocked the interior lights will extinguish but if locked they will be much quicker in going out, in fact they will extinguish after a time even if the doors or hatch is left open.

The fob battery can be changed with difficulty, it means forcing the fob apart and getting the soldering iron out. There are threads on this, do a search including + fob + battery.

Last edited by EYorkshire on 12th Oct 2012 11:05 am. Edited 1 time in total

tecnamflyer wrote:

Also, can the battery in the key be easily changed. Key range leads me to suspect fob batteryl

Gents,
Thanks for your help. Re checked and they did go out after about 3 mins.
As for the fob, maybe the previous owner only used the one and I am trying the other.
Thanks gain,
Paul

Tecnamflyer.

Don't leave your FL2 unlocked for too long even if in a locked garage.

Until the alarm is set with either one or two pushes on the remote, the system will still be awake and drawing a small amount of current.
A few days in the garage unlocked (alarm not set) will flatten your battery.
This has happened to me and some others on the forum.

A search on the site will give more info if you need it.

No true, irrespective of whether it is locked or unlocked it will go to 'sleep' within the times detailed on LR's chart, which is 36 minutes unlocked or single locked and 12 minutes double locked.
We are talking of less than 1/40th of an AMP drain, so if you have a battery going flat then its due to another fault.

EYorkshire.

My comments about eventually flattening the battery come from;_

personal experience with a then new FL2

confirmed by the official Land Rover Assistance man who came to my rescue

confirmed by an email from some one at Land Rover HQ, (presently I cannot find the email, I did print it off)

and from others on this forum.

I wonder if there is confusion between being put fully to sleep and shut down times etc

I'm sure you would rather believe what you have been told but if a car is behaving correctly then unlocked after 36 minutes the battery drain in shutdown mode is designed to be less than 23.8 mA/h
This equates to only 1 amp in nearly 2 days and nights which with a good battery (and a now't wrong car) should be good for a well over a month and still start.

LR do not publish these figures 'willy nilly' so if your battery is draining current heavily then there is more to it than that.

People talk about 'fully asleep' but I have no idea what they are talking about, as far as I know the customer/driver of the car can only initiate a shutdown mode with minimal battery drain. Maybe 'fully asleep' is a mode when an alarm module has failed

There is so much talk on here about 'workarounds' like, put the fob in and wait before pressing start button in cold weather. Just press it right away and if it needs to pause for glowplug operation it will delay automatically. Some even say it's better to press start without clutch or brake pressed to get the 'System check' over and done with, Why?

Each to their own I suppose

Sorry for going off topic.

What the chart above refers to is the time for shut down (going to sleep) after the alarm has been set, either with one or two pushes on the remote, and then what the current drain is (<23.6mA).

What we need to ascertain is what the current drain is without the alarm being set.

In my case it took 4 days to flatten the battery with the alarm not set.

I agree that after 4 days with the alarm set it would only have been a couple of amps, nothing to worry about.

Do any of the experts here know? Perhaps Disco George or Alex-Pescaru can help.

I know the chart is a little fuzzy but it does say 'single locked or unlocked', so even leaving it unlocked without the alarm set, after 36 minutes the current drain is still <23.8 mA

My point is that by design a car without fault should be capable of being left for long periods with no problem in starting.

EYorkshire wrote:

I know the chart is a little fuzzy but it does say 'single locked or unlocked', so even leaving it unlocked without the alarm set, after 36 minutes the current drain is still <23.8 mA

My point is that by design a car without fault should be capable of being left for long periods with no problem in starting.

EY I'm happy to agree that you are correct in theory but experience of forum members, mainly with early model 07 and 08 vehicles, says otherwise. My own battery once flattened overnight when I did not relock the car after using the tailgate button. Would suggest it's better to be sure...
As regards the idea of switching on the ignition only before starting, again this may be rubbish but a number of us have been advised to do this by dealers. I myself have been told by my dealer that they have checked with LR and that my car (07 GS) does not have a starting delay for the glow plugs. Again this may be b***x but I tend to listen to what they say just in case.

I'm happy to agree with you also

What I'm attempting to say is if your battery went flat overnight then the current drain was not normal, so maybe a software glitch allowed 'things' to stay on. Only the other night I forgot to lock mine on the driveway but had no problems in the morning.
So you are living with a 'glitch' by a workaround that should not be, as for your 07 not having an inbuilt delay you may be right but others have taken this onboard with MY10/11 models.

Software contains thousands of lines of code, and testing before production will not find every glitch, so software is updated as an ongoing thing but they still may have missed when "this and this does that and that is the same temperature as something else then I will lock all the doors and not let anyone in" scenario. I sometimes think cars these days are too smart for their own good.

If it works for you then fine

That's basically my point too - I think some of the early models had software glitches for which we as a forum designed workarounds. LR may well have sorted these out by now in the recent models. I think from memory the OP has bought an 07 model, so he may have bought some of those glitches with it. If he finds that his car is fine, then fine, but if he does have problems those old workarounds may help.