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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey
My little driving adventure

Sydney-Yerranderie-Hill End-Stockton Dunes-Sydney. Trip around 1200km, 8.8L/100km.

Click image to enlarge


Ever since I bought my Landie (Freelander 2, SD4 SE), I wanted to test it in the sands of Stockton dunes. Then I said to myself, why don’t you go the long way, in the Blue Mountains, up to Hill End and then through Mudgee and The Golden Highway down to Anna Bay, where I can finally drive in the sand.

I got my Stauns, I got my Maxtracks, my tent and sleeping bag, got water and food - it took forever to pack it all and on Monday, 23 January at 12pm I am finally ready (how ready I couldn’t know). Wife is not happy, she wants me to stay home, but I have a few days for myself and want something different.

The freeway out of Sydney is quite quick. After the hectic packing I don’t have a clear plan – maybe drive to Bathurst, then to Sofala and Hill End, or perhaps if I have time I might get to Yerranderie, a historical ghost town in the Blue Mountains. Why Sofala and Hill End and why Yerranderie? Well, the Australian history fascinates me – how is it possible for a town to be booming in a very short period of time, and then simply disappear from the map and for Sofala and Hill End? I simply saw two pictures in the Art Gallery NSW of the same street in Sofala, by Donald Friend and Russell Drysdale, which I liked and wanted to see how much the street has changed since they painted it (Russell Drysdale is my favourite Australian painter). Donald Friend later bought a house and worked for a while in Hill End. I also hope to check some of the dirt tracks around Sunny Corner as recommended by mikehzz.

Never mind my reasons, when I get to Lithgow, I realise I’ve missed the turn to Oberon, Shooters Hill and eventually Yerranderie. It is still fresh and early – brief hesitation and I decide to go back. Boring Oberon follows, but after Shooters Hill, the drive is beautiful and I miss the turn to Yerranderie, loosing half an hour with some 40k driving forward and back. Finally I get to the gravel road, which says 76k to Yerranderie. I proceed carefully, but the grass-gravel-snow program gives me confidence. This program is simply brilliant – the next day I will avoid a sure collision with incoming Ute. I get to Yerranderie in one piece (Landie included, except a little damage on the front left alloy wheel), despite driving arrogantly sometimes up to 80kh and despite the poor condition of the track, lots of recent rain made it badly corrugated. On places I wish I don’t smash my Landie in the invisible holes with such speed. With every turn I freak out, imagining some ugly Toyota jumping suddenly in front of me. The track is narrow, sometimes single lane twisting and edging above deep abysses (God bless the capabilities of Freelander 2).

A dam between Lithgow and Oberon. I forgot the name.
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The drive after Shooters Hill is beautiful.
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On the gravel road to Yerranderie. I stop for a photo, but I am nervous that my progress is slow and I might end up arriving after dark, which leads to hitting a rock and damaging my front left alloy rim.
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I get there in one peace relieved, but there is no one in Yerranderrie, I drive around the few empty cottages. A sign says go to the caretakers cottage down the road, where I finally find the caretaker, pay him my $7 for the camping and enjoy the status of the only guest of a ghost town. It takes a while to work out how to pitch my tent, but then starts the fun bit: a charcoal barbeque, few marinated chicken and pork pieces on it and of course cold beer (lucky I didn’t forget to crash a bag of ice in the eskie). One bold resident possum tries to bite the edge of my provisions bag. I chase him away and he runs into the chimney of the kitchen. I decide to pack everything in the car (don’t trust the possum), before cosying on my airbed in the tent. Then I fall asleep the happiest man alive.

I am finally at Yerranderie!
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I am looking for the caretaker.
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I find a few old, abandoned buildings.
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And kangaroos…
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Now I am looking for the best spot for my tent.
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Finally my camp for the night. There is a kitchen, toilet and hot showers in the building behind, fireplace in the front, where I’ll make BBQ, fried chips and green salad for diner with cold beer. What else could you ask for? Tonight I am the happiest man alive!
Click image to enlarge


Sorry folks, it’s too long now – tomorrow I will continue to Sofala and Hill End. :)

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green

Last edited by Vesko on 27th Jan 2012 10:50 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #129451 27th Jan 2012 11:45 am
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iain cooper



Member Since: 27 Aug 2007
Location: north of Glasgow
Posts: 1989

Scotland 2009 Freelander 2 TD4_e HSE Manual Lago Grey

great pictures Vesko, looks like you are having a brilliant time.

Iain

Post #129454 27th Jan 2012 12:02 pm
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

just read this, great days drive out, something that i would love to do if i ever got to visit that way Thumbs Up Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #129455 27th Jan 2012 12:08 pm
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Thanks iain, I truly had a great time, despite the miserable weather.

Post #129463 27th Jan 2012 1:09 pm
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hey npinks, don't hesitate coming. I'll be happy to show you around Very Happy

Post #129465 27th Jan 2012 1:11 pm
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jaksbak@freel2



Member Since: 26 Dec 2010
Location: Fraser Coast
Posts: 225

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hey Vesko. Perhaps your wife wasn't aware but the minute you purchased a grey FL2 you were destined to get it dirty and enjoy the great outdoors. We grey folk, buy them so the dirt doesn't show up so much. It's weird, but within 24Hrs of washing mine, I have to find somewhere to get it dirty again. Only yesterday, the stress levels from waiting for another flood (almost 12 months exactly since the last 2 floods), compelled me to drive out to my fathers farm with an excuse of checking his tractor (in case we needed it for evacuations). Everything was fine, Dad was ready to go if need be. I'm not sure why, but with a clean FL2 I couldn't help turning the DSC Off, turning the dial to 'Sand" and hitting those wet, soggy, slippery paddocks at pace and a handful of SD4 revs. Whooooo Hoooooo!!!. In the corner of my eye I could see Dad staring at me from the distant hill, wondering what the hell I was doing. Somehow, I figured these genes were handed down and he knew I was letting off some steam. I didn't hit any livestock, nor did I do any apparent damage, but it sure felt bloody great. Happiest man alive at that moment and now back at the Caravan Park we own, I only have to look at the mud splattered all over the Freely and the stress subsides. Good news is that we have avoided flooding for at least a day after a fairly dry day in the catchment area.

Post #129618 28th Jan 2012 10:52 am
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chicken george



Member Since: 06 Dec 2007
Location: N. Yorks
Posts: 13283

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Santorini Black

tell the caretaker to get of his arse and care for some of those shacks Laughing At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Post #129621 28th Jan 2012 11:17 am
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julytourist



Member Since: 16 Dec 2010
Location: West London
Posts: 409

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Rimini Red

Great stuff Vesko, looking forward to the next installment....... JT Upgraded to an ex demo, 7 mth old, Rimini Red/Ebony Napoli Auto HSE on 28th Jan 2011, added roof rails, mudflaps and side strips.
Gone - A great 57 Plate, Auto SE, Bought Feb 2009, Roof Rails and Mudflaps added on purchase. Blue colour, anything but drug dealer black.....

Post #129717 29th Jan 2012 12:25 am
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

jaksbak@freel2, I keep my fingers crossed for you guys, you've had enough floods, that's enough!
I saw your photo gallery; the image called Pit12_Jun11_001_.JPG looks very scary. I am not sure if I would have the nerve to try something like this. Shocked

Post #129725 29th Jan 2012 4:24 am
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

chicken george, you are right - the caretaker looked relieved that I wouldn’t require him to open one of the cottages. Smile

Post #129726 29th Jan 2012 4:31 am
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Thank you julytourist, comming right up Smile

Post #129727 29th Jan 2012 4:32 am
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey
My little driving adventure - day 2

The Yerranderie birds wake me up at 6. I cook myself a hearty breakfast of fried bacon and eggs, complemented by a large mug of strong coffee and enjoy the company of three kangaroos nibbing grass peacefully nearby. Then, after packing up, I am ready for a bit of exploration of the ghost town, the cemetery and the abandoned silver mines, scattered around the bush, taking care not to slip accidently into some hidden mine shaft.

Three kangaroos keep me company.

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I climb the hill to Silver Peak Mine.
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Silver Peak Mine.
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A lonely fireplace is the only remnants of somebody’s house at Yerranderie.
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Around 10 o’clock I am heading back to Oberon. Out of curiosity, on the Garmin I set as destination some street in Oberon and amazingly it works, the lady starts telling me where to drive and how far is the next turn (I thought for the bush I would need Topo Australia and New Zealand). Today I drive more carefully, anticipating the dangerous turns on the track. There is some traffic – a few Utes driven by guys in National Parks and Wildlife uniforms, who greet me cheerfully when we pass.

In Oberon I fill up the diesel (just in case), replace the melted ice in the cooler with a bag of fresh ice and then have a pleasant drive to Bathurst. Initially I wanted to get to Sofala through Sunny Corner, but now I realise there wouldn’t be time for Sofala or Hill End and decide to skip this part of the plan (unfinished business, that will make me come back another time).

I stop to investigate where the smoke comes from. They are just burning the fields.
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Sofala reminds me of Europe, especially when driving down the hill and you catch some glimpses of roofs amongst the trees in the valley. I immediately feel at home here, although it is very sleepy. A few relaxed artist types enjoy fogged schooners on a table in front of the pub. I am tempted to join them, but resist the temptation – there is still some driving to do. Sofala has a special atmosphere, amazingly, the buildings from Drysdale and Friend’s pictures are still there – the pub is actually one of them.

The final turn before Sofala.
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Yellow house, red roof and grey Vesko Very Happy
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I also do some gold mining at The Son of Hope Mine – History Hill.
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There is a short stretch of gravel road between Sofala and Hill End which is nothing like the corrugated track to Yerranderie. It’s beautiful drive into the green mountains. I stop to see History Hill Museum, which deserves more time, with the underground mine and the numerous exhibits explaining the workings of a gold rush town. Then at Hill End visitors centre I get a map and find the village camping area. Tonight I am not alone. Shortly after my arrival two more cars enter the campground – Steve from New Castle, who pulls out a handy antenna for his portable TV and then a retired couple, who unfold their trailer to make it look like sharply pointed alpine chalet.

I set up my camp (now much more efficient with the tent) and use the remainder of the day to explore the village. Lots of the buildings are missing, but instead there are plaques, erected in front of the empty plots with photographs and sometimes short stories, which make it even more interesting. I try to imagine how Hill End was once the largest inland center in NSW. There is a 5km round walk in the bush (Bald Hill Walking Track) through the Irish Town and orchard. I cannot believe my eyes – plums and pears thriving amongst the Australian eucalyptus! The type used in Europe for making very strong spirits like rakia. Apparently there where many Irishmen trying their luck in the goldmines. The landscape around the bush looks fantastic – colorful earth, eroded by the digging of numerous gold prospectors and now covered with vegetation.

Hill End Pub.
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The village camping ground.
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Beyers Cottage. Louis Beyers was once a respectable mayor of Hill End.
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Some machinery left to rust by the miners.
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Around the bush on the Bald Hill Walking Track.
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Night has come to Hill End.
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It’s nearly dark when I get back to the village. Sadly, the pub is empty and I head back to the camping ground where Steve, the guy from New Castle has lit a fire. We chat a little around the fire and he gives me advice about driving on the dunes at Stockton Beach.

The chicken soup I cook for diner with a bit of onion, carrot, potato, parsley and some dry herbs has never tasted so good! With a few beers and the wonderful day I had, I am still the happiest man alive…

Tomorrow I will drive to Anna Bay.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green

Last edited by Vesko on 29th Jan 2012 7:13 am. Edited 4 times in total

Post #129728 29th Jan 2012 4:52 am
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Vesko



Member Since: 18 Jan 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Stornoway Grey
My little driving adventure - day 2

Sorry, duplicated post - can't work out how to delete it.

Post #129729 29th Jan 2012 4:52 am
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mikehzz



Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Springwood
Posts: 749

Australia 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Lago Grey

Great trip report Vesko Smile. I could have shown you a few excellent tracks from Sofala through to Capertee that would get you to Stockton in a most interesting way. Also, you can get to Yerranderie via Jenolan Caves and Dingo Dell....much better than Oberon but best not to attempt it on your own. Maybe another time Smile
I have been away down in the Brindabellas near Canberra all weekend doing some absolutely awesome tracks in my Jeep. My FL2 would have eaten them as well but I wanted to keep the kms down. Pencil that area in for some fun at a later date. Keep the reports coming. Cheers.

Post #129732 29th Jan 2012 8:43 am
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

Again some great photos

I'm guess the towns are abandoned due to the gold fever moving on when the mines dried up if anything more than mud and stones? Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #129733 29th Jan 2012 9:16 am
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