when i first start my freelander 2 it shows this message HDC FAULT SYSTEM NOT AVAILABLE once started it goes away has anyone got any ideas what it may be causing this and is it something i should be looked at straight away
cheers houghta.

A common cold weather cause for this message is your battery voltage is low, perhaps needs an external charge up or replacement.

cold oil in the haldex takes a little while to pressure up At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Haldex has nothing to do with HDC.
It's the ABS system that throws that error because of the low voltage situation during cranking.
Because the HDC uses ABS to brake the wheels and a low voltage situation is not good for the electrical ABS pump that generates the pressure needed for braking when HDC is active.

It is also possible that the internal presure switch in the ABS modulator is playing up. this is what my car was doing for a few weeks then it finally failed with loss of ABS, cruise controll, roll stabillity control and Teraine response. Took it to the steelers only to find out that the ABS modulator could not be stripped as it was a sealed unit and it would be a new unit needed probably with the same faulty presure switch.
The unit was £500 and labour was a further £500. Pretty crap day I had on that day as my car had only covered 25,000 miles. customer services were not as helpfull as I had hoped and would would only pay £250 towards the bill.
If your cars are still in warranty dont delay and get it logged at Landrover. Could save you a fortune in the long run

Alex,
Your right about the Haldex unit.
Once underway, the alternator will bring the voltage back up to the correct level, hence the warning lamp extinguishes.
It's worth checking your battery connections for tightness and corrosion. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Last edited by Pegleg on 6th Dec 2011 10:13 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Mine has been doing it, but since I change the battery I have not had it back again

My 2008 LR2 (Freelander if you prefer) is intermitantly having the HDC fault

I am currently at 47,157 miles with the warranty running out at 50,000 miles

It does apper to happen more often in the morning but the car is in the garage and the temperature over night only drop to ~50F

I did replace the Battery about 1 month ago (emergency repair LR still owes me for the cost) so I don't think that it is the battery.

Since my car is still under warranty the dealer has it right now and they are trying to fix the problem (2nd attempt) the first time I brought it in they either replaced firmware/software or they replaced the ECM I can't be sure from the paperwork (warranty work, no cost to me)

If the dealer comes up with a solution I will post it here.

For reference: my car will start with the HDC fault, my code reader indicates that there is no problem, and the yellow light will not turn off until I re-start, after a re-start the HDC message is gone

Mine does it when cold - usually combined with slow cranking as if the battery is down on charge... I just now accept it that it is a sign of winter and the temp is low. It always clears almost immediately and never causes and real problems.

The car is now over 4 yrs so I'm wondering if the battery will last another winter without conditioning / charging it? Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Captain Worm,
The condition of batteries is a notorious difficult subject.
Some batteries will last for years; i know of one old lady whose car battery lasted for 17 years, all short runs once a week and never trickle charged.
The designers know that a battery will never be fully charged from the alternator alone, and normally all this together with low temps, would have been taken into consideration.
In short, in cold temps, keep your elec loads as low as safely possible, if you are doing short runs either take it for a decent run once a week or give it a trickle charge. The current draw from cranking alone is huge combined with thicker oil and low electrolite temp puts a strain on the battery.
If your car still continues to start, don't be drawn into getting a new battery just because the one you've got is a few years old.
You could end up buying something that might fail as soon as the warranty runs out.
Or hopefully, before! Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Captain Worm

"Mine does it when cold - usually combined with slow cranking as if the battery is down on charge... I just now accept it that it is a sign of winter and the temp is low. It always clears almost immediately and never causes and real problems. "

My one used to turn so slowly like a flat battery it would actually momentarily stop on cranking so HDC disabled amoungst other things was always appearing.

Since I fitted the extra earth strap it has always spun over with avengeance , even when its been -6 or more so if yours cranks over slowly I would check the earthing voltage . For me apart from a bad engine earth it also had a corroded body earth internally in the cable which couldn't be seen as it was shrink wrapped.

But I can confirm they shouldn't turn over slowly in the cold and my HDC, ABS or engine reduced power has never appeared again.

oldgeezer wrote:

But I can confirm they shouldn't turn over slowly in the cold and my HDC, ABS or engine reduced power has never appeared again.

Is this a hint of him starting to be happy with his Freelander?  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

"Is this a hint of him starting to be happy with his Freelander ! "

Nope its a love hate relation ship, Its a piece of carp that I have to endure otherwise I loose too much money on it ! I hope to love it if we have plenty of snow

I was just offering help from my experiences as others have done which has greatly helped get many of my issues fixed.this includes water loss caused by EGR valve ! and many many others, for which I thank this forum.

Now if Landrover Uk read this forum they should either be ashamed of themselves or should of stepped forward in cases where they felt sure something wasn't right to assist in addressing serious issues.

The advice I had from McPherson strut, was fantastic & solved 3 years of a knocking tow-bar ! ( which in fact the Landrover mechanic said " swan neck tow bars are not designed to tow caravans" 2nd quote " we cant find anything wrong " that's the sort of carp I have had to endure & this is where these forums are brilliant. You could physically get hold of the neck and shake it up and down by 4-5 mm ! no wonder it knocked

When I was reporting my HDC, ABS and engine reduced power faults I was told "there all like it ! " but now I know they shouldn't be & battery voltage at cranking is critical,

Anyway my advice to Captain worm would be to check the voltage at cranking between the battery earth terminal and the engine block using good cable clamps and using an anolouge voltmeter or scope. Voltage should be zero ! if it rises between .03 and 3.50 volts momentarily when the starter engages then there is a bad earth & should be fixed

oldgeezer wrote:

The advice I had from McPherson strut, was fantastic & solved 3 years of a knocking tow-bar ! ( which in fact the Landrover mechanic said " swan neck tow bars are not designed to tow caravans" 2nd quote " we cant find anything wrong " that's the sort of carp I have had to endure & this is where these forums are brilliant. You could physically get hold of the neck and shake it up and down by 4-5 mm ! no wonder it knocked

Well don't get to exited regarding the tow bar fix, because it is still not solved, the latest ones are now starting to fail

oldgeezer wrote:

You could physically get hold of the neck and shake it up and down by 4-5 mm ! no wonder it knocked

Sorry, I couldn't help it...