Thanks for the replies, Mikey do you recommend any particular OEM kit, being in Cyprus I don't trust the supplies out here so need to order from uk my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Does anyone have the latest service schedule giving the reduced SD4 cambelt interval? my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Thanks Mikey my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Mikey wrote:

Topix

D3/4/L405/494/Velar are all 7 years too

Just as a side note for the 2.2 engine timing belt changes.
The bottom crankshaft sprocket does have a keyway, but it is larger than the key, meaning when you undo the bottom pulley you upset the timing. This can be as much as a half a tooth either way.
If you don't follow the correct procedure which involves removing the starter & locking the flywheel in the correct place (along with the cam sprocket) your valve timing can be quite a way out.

You can get away with it if you are lucky, but the engine isn't as efficient, or go as well as when it's correct.

regards
Steve

I did mine (2.2 MY11) at 150k klms with the Gates kit that came with the water pump and tensioner. The locking pins are reasonably cheap and I wouldn't attempt the change without them. The crank bolt was a mother to get off and I had to get myself a good quality socket and breaker bar to do the job after my cheap set croaked it on the first attempt.

The belt itself looked fine but you never can tell.

The Gates kit came with comprehensive instructions.

g

To echo what Steve said ^

Done a belt on Thursday, 57 reg, 120k miles. Starter out, locked flywheel, couldn't get the cam tool in, as the belt had stretched that much

Once the crank pulley was off, the cam could be turned enough to get the pin into place

Did mine on my Evoque yesterday. Posted this on the Evoque forum. Bloody keyway gave me bother - if Steve had posted a day earlier it would have saved me plenty o' time! Should apply to SD4 FL2’s.

Well, I finally got round to replacing the timing belt and water pump on my 2012 SD4 2.2. With just 58,000 on the clock but with it being just over 7 years old, according to the new recommendations it was due for replacement. I bought a complete Gates kit which included belt, pulley, tensioner, pump and a new crank pulley nut. I also fitted a new drive belt and changed the antifreeze. I’ve been in the trade for many years and done well over a hundred cam belts changes but this one was a bit of a faff! Plenty of 'how to's' on the net so I won’t bother with another one but a few things to observe. The only special tools needed are a cam and crank timing pin (although I used the trade approved method of drill bits lol) and a crank locking tool - with the starter removed (which you must do to gain access to the timing pin hoke in the block) it’s an adjustable universal tool to engage in the ring gear teeth. It is needed to remove/tighten the crank pulley nut which must be tightened to 70Nm + 62°-80° depending on what book you are looking in. I did mine 90° to be sure. The new nut comes with locktite already on it.

Firstly, I thought it would be straightforward, what with the crankshaft having a woodruff key but it’s not that simple. The keyway in the crankshaft belt pulley and the crank damper are almost twice the width of the thickness of the key itself so it is in no way a perfect fit. Almost one full tooth's play from side to side. At first I thought that the pulley bolt had come loose and the back and forth movement of the pulleys had worn the keyway slot but the crankshaft reluctor disc was the same size. Reading up, I found this was normal.

When removing the engine mounting bracket from the block, there are 4 x 16mm head bolts, 1 x 18mm head bolts and one external torx head bolt. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE THE TORX HEAD BOLT. Just loosen this bolt a few turns as it’s in a ‘U’ shaped recess and the bracket will lift up and out when the other bolts are removed. The reason for not removing this is that it is that the torx bolt goes through the timing belt jockey pulley. I heard a 'ping' when I removed it and realised what I had done. After removing the bracket I refitted the bolt and wedged a wheel nut between it and the belt to keep things together.

Click image to enlarge

FYI, the engine mount doesn't have to come off

Remove belt, undo torx bolt, and the pulley drops out the bottom

Thanks Mikey - I realised that after but until I’m familiar with things, I like to get as much stuff out of the way when doing it. I’ll remember that for next time. Actually I won’t because there won’t be a next time!  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I had trouble fitting the long pin in the flywheel hole, It was made easier by using one of those mirror tools to line the pin with the hole.


The use of a Torque Multiplier makes undoing the Crankshaft Bolt very very easy.


Don't know if it was luck or even if it really matters but on replacing the belt the crank key sat in the middle of the cut out. I had read a couple of differing articles as to where it should sit.

I did have a problem setting the tensioner on my own so had to have a hand for that.

Live and learn


The use of a Torque Multiplier makes undoing the Crankshaft Bolt very very easy.

g