I get a vibration and a sort of booming noise at around 1900rpm when cruising at low throttle opening. It is very specific to that rpm.

I have always assumed it was resonance in the exhaust.

Pete 2007 TD4 HSE Auto

Hi Zorba, was the cause of this vibration ever found?
it appears mine has started vibrating around 1800 > 2000 RPM when under load
Dave DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

Afternoon everyone. Several months ago my i6 developed an annoying resonance between 1500 and 2000 rpm, when accelerating lightly, after a deceleration. I can only describe the sound as “naaaar!”, and it would disappear on lifting the accelerator, only to come back when it was pressed again.
I tried...gearbox /torque converter flush, twice, adjusting bonnet, replaced cat, replaced exhaust, replaced power steering pump, replaced ancillary belt and pulleys...and this week replaced the engine mounts. Noise still there😕

It was when I was changing the lower engine isolator mount I noticed that its heatshield ‘rings’ like a tuning fork when you tap it. Also, there’s a group of 4 pipes with heatshield sheaths right next to it, with one of the pipes coming straight from the engine casing (i.e. it was subject to engine vibration, and is also clipped to an ‘isolated’ part of the subframe!).The pipes are secured with plastic pipe clips, however mine had perished, and also the heatshield material had crushed so it was smaller than the clip.

How I fixed it (you can try at your own discretion and at your own risk....just covering my a*s)...
1. Working from underneath, apply self adhering class 0 fire retardant (solid, not aerosol) insulating foam to the underside of the engine isolator mount heatshield.
2. Remove o/s front wheel and pull back the plastic inner arch (nearest the door) to gain access to the pipes
3. Inspect and tap the pipes, and if they rattle, discard the plastic clips and secure them using cable ties, but put some more fire retardant insulating foam between the pipes and the metal bracket.
That’s it! Not heard or felt the resonance since....fingers crossed.

It was a very expensive and frustrating exercise going through the trial and error diagnosis, but hopefully it saves some other Freelander owners going through the same. All donations gratefully received 😂

My 2011 SD4 has exactly what Zorba described at the start of this thread. The vibration happens in every gear at about 1400-1800 RPM. Its not just a vibration or something loose and resonating. At its worst the whole car shakes.
LR authorised dealer told me its the rear diff, so I pulled the fuse for the Haldex unit to disable drive to the rear wheels and the issue is still there, just the same, so probably not the diff or Haldex. I dont see that it would be either of those as issues there would relate to road speed, not engine speed.
Would love to hear from anyone who has solved this issue.

In my opinion this issue is related either to engine or gearbox mounts, front drive shafts may be, but definitely something mechanical from the front.

My problem was resolved today with the auto transmission being flushed and filled with new fluid. Transmission specialist diagnosed slippage in the lock-up mechanism of the torque convertor as the cause. He recommends a flush and renew the fluid every 40,000-50,000km.

Nice to hear that...I’ve flushed mine 5’000 km ago and still have the vibration...

dorsetfreelander wrote:

We had something like this and it turned out to be a front drive shaft. The inner rubber boot didn't have a securing clip on it (only a cable tie!) which had allowed water to get in and ruin the joint. The only way to test was to raise each wheel and see if there was any play in the CV joints, if you did it with the wheel on the ground then you couldn't feel the play.
The point here was that when the joint goes under load the spider in the loose joint can be "held" in different positions so that the the vibration is sometimes worse than at other times. (hope that makes sense)

OK, CV joints and drive shafts - some wrote here they have change theirs and the vibration has stayed...what costs are we talking about to change a drive shaft?