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Cobramark



Member Since: 18 Dec 2018
Location: WEST YORKSHIRE
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

Did an interim oil and filter change and power steering fluid change, vibration at 1800rpm reduced.

The steering fluid was dark brown, now light green.


Post #362861 1st Jan 2019 8:28 pm
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IanTeign



Member Since: 09 Jan 2019
Location: Devon
Posts: 16

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Hello all

Just bought a 60 plate GS TD4. Overall am very pleased with it. Drives well, everything works so pretty pleased. Had a FL1 TD4 before so am used to spending more time under a Land Rover rather than in it. Familiy have always had LRs, form series to discos.

Anyway, I've noticed this vibration at around the same RPM / speed. It only happs for a few seconds. The best way I can describe it is like driving over those yellow lines they use for traffic calming. Only seems to happen on a dual carrigeway or motorway. If you accelerate it goes away. Does this sound like the same thing? Seems to get better the more you drive. Was thinking an auto box fluid change might be a good idea soon. Truck has a good service history and decent tyres.

Had a similar sound on the FL1 and it was the prop support bearings so driveshafts would seem the most obvoius thing. Its under warranty so would like to get it sorted before that runs out.

Cheers all

Post #363717 14th Jan 2019 3:41 pm
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Could be several things Ian but a early change of ALL the fluids will not do any harm. Methods of purging the autobox of old oil have been discussed on here (mine is not auto) so a search should turn something up using a few key words. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #363719 14th Jan 2019 4:13 pm
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Pedro



Member Since: 01 Apr 2010
Location: Very near Pig Hill
Posts: 449

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Galway Green

I have an FL1 and an FL2 - You won't be please to hear that I've spent a lot more time under my FL2 than the missus TD4 FL1 which is also on higher mileage......

Unfortunately, if it is those bearings, you can't change them on an FL2 and will need a full prop shaft.

However, whilst discussing a problem on my car recently, I was told by Austen @ Bell Engineering that the FL2 prop shaft bearings 'rarely go wrong'.

Good luck and welcome ! FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Post #363725 14th Jan 2019 5:10 pm
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IanTeign



Member Since: 09 Jan 2019
Location: Devon
Posts: 16

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Thanks for the replies, really helpful. I checked all the drive shafts last night, no play in any of them and all the covers look ok. I changed the auto box and IRD fluids on the FL1 when it got it, never had any issues with them.

Annoyingly I can't get that done under waranty. It only seems to happen very occasionally when driving over 50. I'll leave it for a bit and then change them. I'm guessing that transfer box, auto box and haldex fluids should all be changed? Is there a filter in the Haldex that needs changing?

Its got 3 stamps form LR main dealers in the book. Doubt they willl have changed any of these.

Thanks again for all the help.

Post #363801 15th Jan 2019 3:49 pm
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Tigertim



Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

Hi,there are quite a number of us on here with this unidentifiable vibration that mainly seems to affect early autos ,more noticeable when under light load at between 1800/2000 rpm. Once you know it’s there it really gets annoying. I’m on a mission to try and find the root cause and have tried all sorts over the past 6 months and now a mate with a garage with a pit inside will allow me to put the car on stands and while I’m underneath looking and feeling as it’s driven while suspended and hopefully something will show up ... if you find anything please share . You can buy the haldex gen3 filter and oil from Volvo cheaper . Tim

Post #363806 15th Jan 2019 4:58 pm
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IanTeign



Member Since: 09 Jan 2019
Location: Devon
Posts: 16

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Spot on Tim, thanks. I'll remember that when I do the fluid change. Will be interesting to see how you get on checking under the vehicle. Ours is a late 2010 FL2. Other than this one small thing I'm really pleased with it . ____________________________

FL2 SD4 XS - Current
FL2 TD4 GS (Auto) - Gone
FL1 TD4 Freestyle (Auto) - Gone

Post #363827 15th Jan 2019 8:31 pm
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markyzs180



Member Since: 26 Jun 2018
Location: Solihull
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Auto Stornoway Grey

Tigertim wrote:
Hi,there are quite a number of us on here with this unidentifiable vibration that mainly seems to affect early autos ,more noticeable when under light load at between 1800/2000 rpm. Once you know it’s there it really gets annoying. I’m on a mission to try and find the root cause and have tried all sorts over the past 6 months and now a mate with a garage with a pit inside will allow me to put the car on stands and while I’m underneath looking and feeling as it’s driven while suspended and hopefully something will show up ... if you find anything please share . You can buy the haldex gen3 filter and oil from Volvo cheaper . Tim


Look forward to your hearing your findings Tim as after my initial jubilation that the wobble had gone i can now feel it... only very slightly but (as you know) when you know its there its bloody annoying.
One thing worth bearing in mind... whilst I had mine in bits my mate (old school home mechanic/engineer)had a look and was rotating the driveshaft until it locked and thought there was too much play in the gearbox mount... it did rock the engine quite a bit. Frustratingly though, the wobble is either not there or not noticeable in sport mode? I'm also wondering whether the n/s caliper may be sticking as it seems more noticeable after braking heavily?
Keep us posted mate Thumbs Up

Post #363834 15th Jan 2019 10:13 pm
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Tigertim



Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

I can rule out the lower mount as I too thought it rather sloppy so replaced it and made no difference at all . When in sport mode it’s the fact that throttle response is increased and gear changes are at a higher rpm so you don’t notice the vibes as you sort of drive through it where as in normal drive it hangs at around 1800/1900 just before it changes gear just in the vibes zone ...

Post #363886 16th Jan 2019 5:47 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2747

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Tigertim wrote:
Hi,there are quite a number of us on here with this unidentifiable vibration that mainly seems to affect early autos ,more noticeable when under light load at between 1800/2000 rpm. Once you know it’s there it really gets annoying. I’m on a mission to try and find the root cause and have tried all sorts over the past 6 months and now a mate with a garage with a pit inside will allow me to put the car on stands and while I’m underneath looking and feeling as it’s driven while suspended and hopefully something will show up ... if you find anything please share . You can buy the haldex gen3 filter and oil from Volvo cheaper . Tim


Am I right in thinking that this problem is normally in pre 2011 facelift models as that marked various changes including engine.
https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-news/fir...-facelift/

Does the change provide any clues? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 74k+ miles) (MY2015)

Post #363889 16th Jan 2019 5:55 pm
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Tigertim



Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

Yeh that’s right and also haldex units changed from gen 3 to 4 so possibly something to consider ..

Post #363899 16th Jan 2019 7:57 pm
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markyzs180



Member Since: 26 Jun 2018
Location: Solihull
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Auto Stornoway Grey

Tigertim wrote:
I can rule out the lower mount as I too thought it rather sloppy so replaced it and made no difference at all . When in sport mode it’s the fact that throttle response is increased and gear changes are at a higher rpm so you don’t notice the vibes as you sort of drive through it where as in normal drive it hangs at around 1800/1900 just before it changes gear just in the vibes zone ...

Well that's one off the list mate... had a play in the car park at work today... sports mode, command shift and standard and you're right, it can be felt in all modes.
Before I changed the driveshaft mine had become almost un-driveable so I'm certain that whatever is causing it the failing inner cv joint was 'amplifying' it.
Reading back through this thread I keep ending up at the same post.... the one that mentions the inner bearing in the gearbox.... Shocked

Post #363905 16th Jan 2019 9:10 pm
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Tigertim



Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

I know what you mean as I recon one of us would have figured this out by now but as the bearing theory is not visible or easy to check that could be the answer .... sort of hope one day it goes bang and it will show it’s self . Later I will compile a list of things I’ve done so you can check them off yours ...

Post #363942 17th Jan 2019 4:23 pm
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markyzs180



Member Since: 26 Jun 2018
Location: Solihull
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Auto Stornoway Grey

Great idea Thumbs Up

Post #364104 19th Jan 2019 9:40 am
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AussieJames



Member Since: 19 Jan 2019
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Buckingham Blue

I have a similar sounding issue to mikehzz. Mine is an auto, and the vibration can be really big (whole car shakes). It happens in any gear always between 1400 and 1800 RPM under a slight load, such a slight incline. You can accelerate through it and the car is fine again, or shift to a different gear to change the engine revs and it is fine too. I removed the FB6 fuse to disable the haldex and the symptoms were the same.

Did you find a resolution Mikehzz?

Post #364106 19th Jan 2019 10:01 am
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