hey peeps so my back wiper isnt working,
it didnt have a fuse in f20, so i put one in and it sparked when i put it in and the back wiper still doesnt work

how can i tell if its the switch or the motor to the wiper thats not working?

You take it to a good auto electrician. Or you start buying parts to try and then its the cost of a good auto electrician.

You could try reading fault codes, but if you need to buy a fault code reader its the cost of a good auto electrician.

Excuse me its been a long and trying day. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Last edited by Yorky Bob on 3rd Oct 2018 8:02 pm. Edited 2 times in total

If the fuse sparked when you fitted it that means that there is current being drawn by that circuit most probably by the motor. The rear wiper motor has been known to suffer from water ingress which can seize up the motor itself. In some cases the motor can be stripped down, freed off, cleaned and refitted. I assume that you changed the fuse because it had blown? Again that would point to a seized motor (or damaged wiring) A seized motor can still draw a current and get really hot without blowing the fuse although it will blow again eventually.
(a faulty wiper motor won`t give any fault codes)

Take the motor and shaft out and have a look. There is a rubber grommet that is meant to stop water getting into the shaft, but it isn’t great at doing that. The shaft gets rusty and seizes, water gets into the motor, the motor burns out and if you are unlucky, sets fire to the car. A lot of folks take the fuse out at the first sign of any problem to avoid the risk of major problems.

Sounds like yours has failed and the first thing to do is try the fuse (which you’ve done). Second is look at the motor and shaft. Take it all apart, clean it all, regrease it and test it to see if it works. If not, replace the motor (there are threads on doing this with a Fiesta motor and the original shaft, but since the shaft is likely to also be rusty, I think i’d be inclined to replace the whole thing). If it works after a simple clean and regrease, keep an eye on it and at the first sign of it being slow to park, take it apart and repeat the process.

Lots of good threads on here with pics and some interesting YouTube videos, too if you do a google on it.

EDIT: Cross -posted with Dondiddy who said it all much more succinctly!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

so i went to the garage, the mechanic disconnected the back rear wiper motor, put in a new fuse, it didnt spark at all,
soon as he connected the motor back on the fuse sparked,
so its defo the rear wiper motor thats causing the short,
so hopefully tomorrow i'll get the rear wiper motor and get it changed

Going to say if the motor isn't working please make sure it is turned off. If it isn't the motor can dangerously heat up.

ok will do

I Like Chips wrote:

Going to say if the motor isn't working please make sure it is turned off. If it isn't the motor can dangerously heat up.

got it fixed, cost £80 for the motor and £20 labour, so £100 all in

Note to anyone reading this that doesn't know.......
If the shaft seizes and it stops the motor away from the park position, the motor keeps trying to park and can cause it to heat up and could cause a fire in extreme circumstances.
I bought a whole new motor assembly from eBay for £78 and fitted it myself. Very easy to do. MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE

Hi, I have had all the previous problems on here, replaced the motor complete...……..now the blade parks completely randomly. It does all the wiping correctly but after a couple of wipes it parks where it feels like. Has anyone else had this problem, and was it cured. I have a Lynx diagnostic, but it doesn't show any fault. HELP! Dave