The rendering took a beating during Storm Bronagh last night!

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If it fell off in a storm it would definitely fall off in the winter when water behind it freezes, best get it fixed before the weather gets wetter and colder, Sometimes it's cheaper in the long run to have it all stripped off and start again, patching unless in small areas is just putting off the inevitable and it costs more where newer patched rendering is harder to chip off costing more. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Indeed. A colleague has recommended a local guy who has done quality work for him in the past. Our insurance covers storm damage if it is a designated storm, which last night it was. LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

Doc, you’ve got to look on the render as an intentionally sacrificial layer, which may well fail from time to time! Looks to me like it is covering lime-pointed brick, so you might want to avoid a cement render, which is what 90% of builders will want to sell you. It’s getting a bit late in the season for applying a lime render, though, so I would wonder about simply patching it in hydraulic lime (NHL 5 or similar), then getting the job done properly next spring. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

looks like your render is knackered anyway, so if the insurance cover it's renewal you've win a watch Doc !

Iain

Thanks for the input guys  LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

When we moved into our 60’s built house in 1990, the roof underfelt was a type of waxy paper. It was rotted and torn in various places. After a big storm not much after we moved in when many people lost whole roofs, I went up and checked but it it hadn’t worsened much so I, ahem, helped the the underfelt a little and then got our insurance company in. They paid for the whole roof to be taken off and refelted. We could have had new tiles at the time too but my wife didn’t want our house to look different from others in the street. I took the opportunity to remove the chimney at the time (it was only for the original kitchen floor mounted central heating boiler which we had changed for a modern wall mounted one) and we were lucky to be able to buy some similarly aged ones from a reclaimer to make an invisible patch. I was younger and skinter then so I wouldn’t do it nowdays of course.... Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

The first quote is in but he’s booked solid until mid January. He says patching up is no good as rain has got in behind the rendering so it needs doing from scratch.

£4,100. LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

Try & put a claim in on your building insurance, what have you got to loose

Listen to Worms. The whole cement/lime thing is very important. You can use cement but it's a cheap fix that'll cause problems down the line that'll cost more. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Doc,

If you can easily reach the damaged bit, I’d still try to slap on a temporary repair for the winter to stop the whole wall getting wetter. (Just make up a bucket of 1:3 hydrated lime:sand wetted sufficiently and worked to a smooth mortar and trowel it on). I still have a bodged “temporary” repair I did about ten years ago on a very cold wet October day, but it has held so well that I’ve not needed to go back and sort it properly!

If the damage is too high to reach safely, then leave it. If the wall gets wet through the winter, it will all dry out come spring - as long as it’s not been encased in cement! Drying can be slow, though, so it is better to stop it getting wet in the first place. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Thanks. We believe that some other folks coming to provide a quote will have turnaround times before winter sets in. LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

Insurance sent an assessor out today and they have refused to cover it after all. They said it’s gone during the storm due to wear and tear over the years and there’s evidence of patch repairs at some point in the past.

It’s my mums house and since my dad died she has no income and is living off savings so she can’t afford to pay to have it done so it’s being left in the state it’s in. The only hope is that someone can patch bits of it up for low cost. LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

seems all insurance companies no matter what the item insured will try to wriggle out of paying out

I’ve looked at the terms and conditions and think it’s worth complaining to the insurer first and failing that, the ombudsman. Nothing to lose! LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey