I have searched and was following a thread, created by hc1jlg and updated by Carel Kriek, about door lock problems.

Basically my rear passenger door won't open from the outside (it will from inside) and the tailgate operates intermittently but always works when you press the "boot lock" button.

They seemed to have solved their issues by pushing the unlock button on the key fob "x" amount of times until the green arrows flashed and then pushing the lock button the same amount of times.

Try as I like - I couldn't get it to work for me.

My car was in for service today (Last one in a service plan with main dealer) so I asked them to look at the problem.

They said I need new door lock £385 and a new tailgate switch £216!

That seems a lot but I may be living in a bygone age!

Car is MY13 - 5yrs 4months - 45000miles - I would have thought the door locks would have lasted longer, if not forever!!

The tail gate wont need nothing of the sort I suspect. It will probably just be the micro switch that has failed in the boot release you use when opening the tail gate by hand. They are less than £30 on the net, easy enough to fit and a common fault. If you not able to do your own repairs any competent garage can have it done in an hour.

As for the door I have not had (touch wood) any real problems so its only what others have to say but I spray the locks and change batteries in key fobs. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Tailgate switch will cost £20 from Dan at Duckworths. It comes complete with a loom and new number plate lights. YouTube has videos on how to change it - really easy. £216 is a rip off! (I have just done mine!). Sorry, can't really help with the door problem but try a hard reset first. Disconnect the battery and hold the terminals together for a minute or so then reconnect. The windows will require to be reset afterward, that's in the hand book.

Even I managed to changed my tailgate switch it's pretty straightforward.

Greybeard wrote:

Tailgate switch will cost £20 from Dan at Duckworths. It comes complete with a loom and new number plate lights. YouTube has videos on how to change it - really easy. £216 is a rip off! (I have just done mine!). Sorry, can't really help with the door problem but try a hard reset first. Disconnect the battery and hold the terminals together for a minute or so then reconnect. The windows will require to be reset afterward, that's in the hand book.

Thanks for all suggestions.

Looked at the Youtube videos. In all honesty it looks a bit beyond me and requires tools that I do not have.

I could probably manage trying the "hard reset" - is it only the windows that would be affected by that? What about radio & other electrical parts?

Just the windows. No code on the radio. As I only have a manual box I’m not sure how the auto box would be affected. It might take a few miles to relearn your driving style.

Rangerider wrote:

I would have thought the door locks would have lasted longer, if not forever!!

Lol! Is this your first Land Rover?  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

I think your main dealer should be arrested for daylight robbery Shop arround at indipendants.

Don't pay it!!!!!! Bloody bandits. I'm looking at doing my tailgate ( boot where I live ) and following pics at start of the 'Tailgate problems' thread on here it is something to have a go at and plenty of help here if you get stuck
£216.

Pob Luc  If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.