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iaint



Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Kinross-shire
Posts: 24

Scotland 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

SkyeGuy wrote:

So - my 2008 throttle pedal has not cured my car's hesitation/jerk issue, and I suspect the difference in the way the torque or turbo boost is delivered is just down to me now having an earlier-spec pedal on my car.


I think it's more likely due to wear and tear with the added likelihood that parts manufactured during a certain period (2010-2011) were more susceptible. You could always order a new replacement then sell it on ebay for £50 as new (other) if it makes no difference.

Post #353363 15th Jul 2018 12:16 pm
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SkyeGuy



Member Since: 23 Nov 2017
Location: Dunvegan, Isle of Skye
Posts: 104

Scotland 

dorsetfreelander wrote:
Has anyone with the problem approached LR customer services on the forum to see if they can help with a sale or return deal ? Or perhaps Dan at Duckworth ?


How do I find Customer Services on the forum? Currently enjoying:
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD)
2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto
2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe

Post #353663 20th Jul 2018 9:09 am
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TOGGI



Member Since: 02 Jul 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 4

England 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Stornoway Grey

Hi folks just done 1000 mls trip fishing in ireland since changing throttle pedal, no hessitation brand new pedal fitted before trip thanks forum for helping me sort out problem Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Post #353825 23rd Jul 2018 7:35 am
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cbfks



Member Since: 05 Oct 2019
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Bali Blue

Anyone else tried this on a 2011? My problem is like in this video

Post #379361 5th Oct 2019 10:12 pm
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bin



Member Since: 26 Jul 2019
Location: Wilts
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Orkney Grey

I have this issue - as in the video above - at low speed/pulling away after a few seconds halted e.g. junction, roundabout etc.

....and of course it only occurs when the ambient temp gets above 15C...which is insane.

Local-ish LR specialists tracked it as far as identifying what is happening when that noise is made. They put a pressure sensor in the air intake on the join between the airbox and the duct to the turbo. Whenever that noise appears they found a back pressure spike in the duct from the turbo out through the air filter and into the outside world.

My guess is that you are hearing that noise from the left hand side footwell area when driving?

What they then did was to disconnect the MAP sensor on top of the throttle body and it stopped happening.

Since the sensor was not reporting errors they decided the throttle body was at fault and replaced it. This was a hot sunny afternoon in September and I then drove home in stop start traffic - normally a nightmare - and all good. Next day it was back!

Currently temp is of course a bit lower and it's like a different car, smooth, responsive, no "pcha pcha" noise - all good.

So, to my simple mind this has got to be related to something that is aware of the outside temperature - and pretty accurately too.

It reminds me of an issue with my KIA Sportage where they fitted rear roll bar bushes for hot climate to a number of cars. In cold weather they groaned over bumps - in hot they were fine - changeover around 15C........weird! However, not relevant to this problem.

So far as I can find out there are 3 things that could be easily relevant - MAP, MAF and ITA Temp sensors. All are easy to swap. Back in the good old days you use to have a moveable duct on air filter pipes that you used to swivel over to the exhaust manifold area to ensure you got warm air through the carburettor - used to play merry hell in the summer if you forgot to move it back.

I don't know if mass swapping of those bits will make any difference - but I'm going to give it a whirl because there doesn't seem to be any other solution anywhere. Probably won't know the result till next year!

If it's any help - this is my throttle pedal so idon't think it is involved?

Post #379377 6th Oct 2019 7:49 am
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CED



Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: leverington
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Bali Blue

cbfks wrote:
Anyone else tried this on a 2011? My problem is like in this video

I have tried all these things for the last eight frustrating years without successfully remedying the problem. If LR and independents can’t resolve this problem that countless owners with a 11year model onwards seems to suffer from, there doesn’t seem a lot of hope.

Post #379488 7th Oct 2019 7:15 pm
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bin



Member Since: 26 Jul 2019
Location: Wilts
Posts: 36

United Kingdom 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Orkney Grey

Quote:
I have tried all these things for the last eight frustrating years without successfully remedying the problem. If LR and independents can’t resolve this problem that countless owners with a 11year model onwards seems to suffer from, there doesn’t seem a lot of hope.

Interesting that yours is a manual - I was wondering if there was some part of the automatic system that may be responsible.

So, I'm guessing that the 3 sensors I mentioned have been replaced with no benefit?

Post #379511 8th Oct 2019 7:29 am
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CED



Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: leverington
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Bali Blue

Hi Bin , read my other posts on this complex multi symptom problem . My problem started the instant it had its first full service. Putting two and together I decided it must be the MAF that had been damaged whilst changing the air filter, it didn’t made the stop start work for a day, it hadn’t worked from new, but I was fobbed off with the dealers old chestnut of there are multiple requirements on the system for it to work. A new battery this May has made the stop/start work faultlessly ever since. Also the hesitation went away for about a week. This is what made me say, I don’t think there’s a solution.

Post #379515 8th Oct 2019 8:34 am
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cbfks



Member Since: 05 Oct 2019
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Bali Blue

bin wrote:
Quote:
I have tried all these things for the last eight frustrating years without successfully remedying the problem. If LR and independents can’t resolve this problem that countless owners with a 11year model onwards seems to suffer from, there doesn’t seem a lot of hope.

Interesting that yours is a manual - I was wondering if there was some part of the automatic system that may be responsible.

So, I'm guessing that the 3 sensors I mentioned have been replaced with no benefit?


Do you know what fuel and air filters you've put in? Are they the same as stock or different? Would have been nice if someone could reinstall their old filters prior to the problem and see if this makes it go away.

Either way, it's reassuring to know that you've driven the landy for years with this problem and nothing's happened. Perhaps just a characteristic of this vehicle...

The only thing I've noticed is that normally my FL2 auto will make a whooshing sound when changing from 1st to 2nd - this is normal for the auto apparently. But when it makes the problem sound it doesn't do this. auto box dump valve or turbo related?

Post #379577 9th Oct 2019 2:32 pm
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cbfks



Member Since: 05 Oct 2019
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Bali Blue

bin wrote:
I have this issue - as in the video above - at low speed/pulling away after a few seconds halted e.g. junction, roundabout etc.

....and of course it only occurs when the ambient temp gets above 15C...which is insane.

If it's any help - this is my throttle pedal so idon't think it is involved?


Have you tried buying a brand new, i.e. 2015, pedal? Those that have done that seem to have fixed the issue. I may try that on my 2011 FL2 now.

Post #379637 10th Oct 2019 8:15 pm
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FL002



Member Since: 16 Dec 2019
Location: Perth
Posts: 4

Australia 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Ipanema Sand

Hi guys,

I've got a 2011 SD4 SE.

Same issue, intermittent loss of power when exiting low speed corners. Pulling into an intersection and it just decides to pause for a moment....then take off. It's a real pain.

I purchased the new pedal as suggested on here and it seemed to work for a short while but the issue persists.

Other forums have suggested the crank angle sensor, has anyone on here looked at this?

Cheers

Post #393908 8th Jul 2020 3:13 am
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Arctic



Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

logged for later reference, not a FL2 but a R40 which i know as a different engine as well, it was intermittent misfiring, and sometimes go into limp mode, that turned out to be the pedal, so its not only FL2 which may be the same fault?

So yes reference for later only.

Post #394499 21st Jul 2020 10:20 am
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FreelSol1



Member Since: 13 Apr 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 27

England 

CED wrote:
cbfks wrote:
Anyone else tried this on a 2011? My problem is like in this video

I have tried all these things for the last eight frustrating years without successfully remedying the problem. If LR and independents can’t resolve this problem that countless owners with a 11year model onwards seems to suffer from, there doesn’t seem a lot of hope.


** I've got the same problem as in the CED video. *** The difference between this issue and all other issues is the whistle noise at about 2000rpm - what/where is this noise? I've got a 2012 SD4 190. I've had the car for over 12 months and the problem never used to be there - it gradually appeared and got more frequent over time. I've had a JC tuning remap and replacement turbo (from breakers). Remap made no difference (this was when the problem wasn't so bad). Turbo replacement fixed the problem, but only for a few hundred miles and only when the car was warmed up - it got progressively worse so now it happens from startup.

Changed MAF - no difference. Going to indy garage who fitted turbo to check hoses etc. My plan is to diagnose/swap out parts - cheapest ones first. Haldex has been serviced ok. Tyres are all the same.

Note, this also happens in manual mode so probably not gear-change issue.

Post #394500 21st Jul 2020 11:02 am
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DGL



Member Since: 15 Jun 2019
Location: Petworth
Posts: 68

2014 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Santorini Black

bin wrote:
I have this issue - as in the video above - at low speed/pulling away after a few seconds halted e.g. junction, roundabout etc.

....and of course it only occurs when the ambient temp gets above 15C...which is insane.

Local-ish LR specialists tracked it as far as identifying what is happening when that noise is made. They put a pressure sensor in the air intake on the join between the airbox and the duct to the turbo. Whenever that noise appears they found a back pressure spike in the duct from the turbo out through the air filter and into the outside world.

My guess is that you are hearing that noise from the left hand side footwell area when driving?

What they then did was to disconnect the MAP sensor on top of the throttle body and it stopped happening.

Since the sensor was not reporting errors they decided the throttle body was at fault and replaced it. This was a hot sunny afternoon in September and I then drove home in stop start traffic - normally a nightmare - and all good. Next day it was back!


Currently temp is of course a bit lower and it's like a different car, smooth, responsive, no "pcha pcha" noise - all good.

So, to my simple mind this has got to be related to something that is aware of the outside temperature - and pretty accurately too.

It reminds me of an issue with my KIA Sportage where they fitted rear roll bar bushes for hot climate to a number of cars. In cold weather they groaned over bumps - in hot they were fine - changeover around 15C........weird! However, not relevant to this problem.

So far as I can find out there are 3 things that could be easily relevant - MAP, MAF and ITA Temp sensors. All are easy to swap. Back in the good old days you use to have a moveable duct on air filter pipes that you used to swivel over to the exhaust manifold area to ensure you got warm air through the carburettor - used to play merry hell in the summer if you forgot to move it back.

I don't know if mass swapping of those bits will make any difference - but I'm going to give it a whirl because there doesn't seem to be any other solution anywhere. Probably won't know the result till next year!

If it's any help - this is my throttle pedal so idon't think it is involved?










Hi Bin, sorry to raise an old thread but did you have any success with your investigations with this fault? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Post #394694 26th Jul 2020 10:29 am
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CED



Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: leverington
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Bali Blue

Unfortunately there is no known cure, speaking from eight years of trying and getting so called experts involved . Dealers haven’t a clue .

Post #394706 26th Jul 2020 2:08 pm
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