pab wrote:

There's a bit of mis-information creeping into this thread!

Single-locking (single press of the fob) enables the perimeter alarm but not the internal movement detection. Single-locking is intended for windows open, pet in the car scenarios and will not trigger the alarm. My dog regularly gets left for short periods in the car with it single locked and windows part open and the alarm does not sound.

Also, it is not necessary to lock the car to prevent battery drain. Unlocked (or single locked) the car takes slightly longer to shut down than when double-locked, but shut down it will and to the same state. There is a description of the process with shutdown timings in the Topix manual, available here and elsewhere. There have been cases where the car has not shut down completely for some reason, but these are fault scenarios rather than the norm.

I think that I read somewhere that there are 25 modules sitting in the FL2 all alive and waiting for CANBUS signals.

These are the units that the FL2 gradually shuts down to save power, until only the perimeter alarm is left. I think some analogue signal like door ajar is used to wake the system up again.

Your FL2 battery would appreciate a trickle charger if it is going to be left for a long time.

If you search you will see we have come across this problem many times, 2 examples below.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic30592.htm...tery+drain

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29582.htm...p;start=15 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Quote:

Happy reading:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t36280_ds630765

Thanks Paul, very useful information.

Surely we are approaching the point when checking that all these modules are working should be part of the annual service, or even part of the car's everyday start up procedure.

Unless I am mistaken, the LR service list seems to stick mainly with the oily bits.

Perhaps LR should include an electronics self test button, and another to force hard reset to manufacture's settings. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Interesting and useful set of comments however, fuses don't increase their resistance with age. Contact resistance can be a problem so that just removing a fuse and replacing can be as effective as replacing it as the insertion "wipes" the metal contact surfaces of the fuse and fuse holder.
The general message with most complex electronics these days is that they need to be fed with a steady minimum voltage or strange things happen. My HP printer started playing up last week and doing strange things, I discovered that the power supply module was only delivering about 20v instead of the rated 31v. I fed it from a laboratory PSU and only when above about 28 v did it start working properly so not much margin there. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Good point Ian, how many times do we re-boot our computers as they hang and malfunction. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

dorsetfreelander wrote:

The general message with most complex electronics these days is that they need to be fed with a steady minimum voltage or strange things happen.

Very well Said


As for the contact resistance increasing over time. Measurement that I have made in the lab for connectors did exhibit this behavior. This was backed up by product data from the field. In general your assertion is correct for a new fuse, if you remove and replace a new fuse the contact will wipe the surface exposing clean metal that will make a good contact. For the type of connection that we are discussing Tin is typically used. The problem arises when enough Tin is removed to expose the base metal possibly Nickel or Copper. The Nickel and copper are not soft enough to wipe away and the contact resistance will increase over time due to oxidation.

The rate of contact resistance increase over time is affected by Heat, Vibration and Pollution all of which are present under the Bonnet.

In a more benign environment I wouldn't worry about the contact resistance.

If you really want to know more you can search for .... contact fretting electronic connectors


Thanks for sharing the story about the printer. that was exactly the point that I was trying to make and it emphasizes that this is in no way a Land Rover problem. Its just the cost of living in a world with all of these electronic conveniences.

Take care

Paul

IanMetro wrote:

Thanks Paul, very useful information.

Surely we are approaching the point when checking that all these modules are working should be part of the annual service, or even part of the car's everyday start up procedure.

Unless I am mistaken, the LR service list seems to stick mainly with the oily bits.

Perhaps LR should include an electronics self test button, and another to force hard reset to manufacture's settings.

Traded my MY10 TD4e in April, still on original battery and clutch, with stop start and everything, battery was brilliant, hope the new one is as good.  MY2014 SD4 XS
Ipanema Sand

MY10 TD4-e GS Manual
Lago Grey Now retired after 8 trouble free years

I've just changed my battery, on a 2009 td4.e, it looked like the original land rover battery. Stop start hasn't worked since I bought it 3 years ago unless after a very long run, and it was starting to throw up random HDC faults and not starting. Fitted new battery last week and stop start came on within the first ten minutes of driving!

Amazing all the little electronic "grumblings" that go on after switching the car off, you just know it leeching power! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Scrimple,

It is possible that Land Rover made improvements on the battery charging system by 2010.


For me personally I replace the battery every 4 years due to the accelerated ageing that my battery gets from the hot summers here.

It can get as hot as 105F (40C) where I live in California.


When I was driving my A4 Cabriolet to work in the hot summer heat its battery lasted about 5 years.

Now that my A4 is spending weekdays in the Garage and it only gets driven on weekends the battery will likely last longer.

My commute is now: Land Rover --> Train --> Bike to Work


Thanks for sharing your story.


Its always nice to hear good news.


Take care

Paul

[quote="p_gill"]

Quote:

...3) The latched state is persistent until a hard reset is preformed...

...If you recharge the battery the module will still be latched up until you do a hard reset....

Disconnect battery for 20 minutes should do it.

Agreed

Disconnect for 20 minutes and charge the battery with it disconnected.

Measure the voltage of the battery after charging it should be above 12.6 Volts

And measure the Voltage dip at the battery while cranking the engine (it should stay above 10 Volts)