Not really any difference to drivability or fuel economy that I'm aware of, only the peace of mind that things are as they should be.

A few people have asked about repair kit suppliers. I've found a few on eBay, any reason they're no good?

Interesting that this thread has come back up. I am used to the usual shut-down whines and clicks from the throttle body but was surprised to hear the high pitched whine yesterday - a good hour and a half after the key had been taken out of the car! The car had been left unlocked and doors had been opened and shut various times over that period, so the car’s electrics perhaps had not gone into the deeper battery shut-down stage. The whine lasted long enough for me to open the bonnet to check that it really was coming from the throttle body and then clicked off while I was staring at it. Weird that it should try to check it’s flap position so long after the ignition last being on. Only code of any relevance that I get repeatedly is the P0098-00 (3B) intake air temperature sensor 2 circuit high, which I am presuming is a faulty sensor as the code comes back up immediately with ignition on but engine off. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

There was a discussion on the forum some time ago about the need to "calibrate" a throttle body after installing it so that it knows where the end stops are. Most people had just fitted a new one and it seemed to be OK but I wonder if the life is shortened in these cases? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

ip2357 wrote:

Inside plastic gears worn. After some research unable to find new gears. If someone knows something please share.

There was a Russian video showing someone opening the casing and adding thin sheet-metal cogs to the top of the plastic ones. My recollection is that the casing is held on by metal tags that can simply be bent back. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Can you post the video link please? Thank you

I can’t find the Russian one, but this one shows how to open the case (there will also be a link to the first video that shows removal).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lcU1iOeBgyQ 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

At MOT today and after smoke test car refused to start (Turns over ok on starter 2009 e4 120k miles) so was pushed outside.

Not knowing the FL2 fuel lift system I suspected the in tank lift pump , but reading here its only for moving fuel from one side of tank to other due to its shape, and does not prime the fuel filter.

I was also able to pull a quantity of fuel through the spill/tank return line exit on the fuel filter ( about 3x filter volume) and the filter had recently been replaced (LR part).
I hooked up my code reader (Autel) and have P02E5$07E8 and words air intake stuck closed.

I am hoping that the throttle body is just jammed in the closed position , so no air in for combustion hence no start.
It does appear to be stuck as I removed the lower hose and its in the closed position and is jammed.
My question is should it move freely when pushed by fingers even with power off?

I think it should move easily, but have never tried. I did read somewhere that it can be vicious if it springs back on your fingers, so take care, if you get it to move! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Thanks for the advices. Yesterday I maintained the throttle body. Fortunately no broken gear. I lubricated all the gears and reassembled everything.

The disassembly of the throttle body was not difficult. The replacement of the throttle body is a little bit more complicated. In particular, time is lost when replacing the air sleeves.

The gear casing is made of metal and is attached to the throttle body with metal fins. These fins can be opened gently, without breaking them. In this way, the valve gear sector is accessed. It is necessary to have some caution in doing this operation.

The only thing I could not verify is the correct functioning of the sensor placed inside the throttle body. At sight it had no defects or breakages. I cleaned it and put it back in its place.

Thanks again.

Last edited by tascusi on 25th Nov 2018 9:48 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Another job that I will have to do is cleaning the EGR valve, which has never been done in 250,000 km.
I think the difficulties in ignition that I find, at this point and considering that the throttle body is ok, should be caused by the obturation of the EGR valve.
If you have any advice on how to proceed, I thank you in advance.
Thanks again.

I am closing out my own post from yesterday.

I pulled the throttle body today and it was jammed shut (hence no air getting in and not starting) with bits of plastic from the butterfly gear. Once freed and plastic bits cleared it does move smoothly with finger pressure but its got a strong spring so watch out.
Surprised at quantity of oil in it.

Car now running with throttle body disconnected (Sat to side with sensor cables plugged in) and about to fit new throttle body and MAP.

One warning the MAP sensor that screws in just above the throttle body(input to inlet manifold with EGR line) and needs to be moved/twisted to get one of the torx screws out broke (Plastic tube goes in hole in alloy)so try some penetrating oil there first before trying to loosen/twist.
Perhaps a straight pull is better than a twist as the plastic tube is very thin walled in parts. My throttle body and MAP had been in since new -9 years & 120k miles so I don't feel to hard done by.
Could argue it was a stroke of luck it failed at MOT rather than on road/journey.

Be careful buying replacement sensors, there seem to be some huge variations in prices! It’s not clear, though, whether that relates to variation in quality! From memory, i got my replacement «intake air temp sensor 2 » for £11, when the first couple of places were suggesting prices around £80! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

mount on top of the original plastic ones (with the broken teeth)

It's quite neat, but obviously a lot of hassle for us mere mortals.

I would love to buy these two metal cogs though to put on my old throttle body after [url]I have replaced it next week.

None of you retired machinist whizzes able to manufacture some?

www.drive2.com/o/b/474267469767246158/?page=0

not sure how that link is going to be parsed here - if you search for "3DSolidWorks › Blog › Throttle gears Freelander 2" the right page comes up - he has a wee video showing him in action - all safe for work (as of 14 Dec 2018)