Anyone had to replace the innards of their key? A rather dodgy old battery connection resulted in damage to the circuit board whilst fitting a new battery. Cannot get the remote to open the doors, but the chip still allows me to start the car. Sick as a parrot.

Hi, can anyone tell how do's the case (fob) come apart?
and what battery is needed?

Cheers  DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

The battery is a VL2330 - like this one -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0118K...&psc=1

The keyfob case is in two parts, front and back, I used a penknife blade to carefully prise it apart starting from the end where the key fits in, (remove the key first,) you need to be careful though to not stick anything in too far and damage the circuit board inside.

This might help -

Thank you CiveS another addition to the to do list,
Dave DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

Yorky Bob wrote:

Really glad to have come across this earlier this week as my key fob has recently split off (MY2103).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291677890692

Was a bit worried I was breaking the circuit board getting it out but the new one seems to have 2 small plastic lugs you need to melt in (broke lugs off in the old one) to seat the old electric board into the new key fob . Tried it first though.

OK so my spare one is now starting to peel. I've bought one of these replacement cases. So you have to melt the plastic lugs off the new one first ? Is that correct ? Then the circuit board just slips in ??.
Will have to buy a heated screwdriver !

Thanks for any interest :

? You remove the old innards, open new fob and stick them in new fob on the plastic pins and the burr over pins with heat from a soldering iron or other item that can transfer spot heat. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Got it

Thanks

I've now put a Silicone cover on the old fob to keep it together in the meantime.

Looks like I will have to buy a soldering iron to use the new fob cover , unless there's something at the bottom of the tool box

I'm sure it will be obvious when I take it apart

Thanks again

Deano64, is your car still within the warrantee period? The peeling fob is a recognised issue and Land Rover will replace them.

It's on LR extended warranty . It's 3 1/2 years old. Not sure if extended warranty will cover it and the dealer that I've used for 3 years has moved so not convenient any more

Just heat a item like a meat skewer on the end until very hot and touch the plastic pegs, that should do it. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I got both of my keyfobs refurbished by this guy. Just send it off, he replaces the battery and tests it, then sends it back. - can recommend.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-Freela...525263949?

Hi

It's not the rechargeable type.

Anyway, I've put a Silicone cover on it now so it doesn't catch on everything

ta

marcusHSE wrote:

I got both of my keyfobs refurbished by this guy. Just send it off, he replaces the battery and tests it, then sends it back. - can recommend.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-Freela...525263949?

Notanotherhobby wrote:

Anyone had to replace the innards of their key? A rather dodgy old battery connection resulted in damage to the circuit board whilst fitting a new battery. Cannot get the remote to open the doors, but the chip still allows me to start the car. Sick as a parrot.

Picked up the repaired fob today and it works perfectly only £15 so better than a new fob