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andrewpillayza



Member Since: 06 Jul 2015
Location: Gauteng, Johannesburg
Posts: 6

South Africa 
Freelander 2 Intermittent Starting Problem/Instrument Panel

Hi Guys,

Andrew here from South Africa - So, i finally committed some time towards my FL2 TD4 in the last few months, i have purchased (likely a knock off Mongoose Pro with JLR SDD143) diagnostic tools to start working on my FL2 issues. This weekend i will see if i can pull all fault codes and post here for assistance (Theres a DOZEN of fault codes) and yet i can only think of communication issues/ can bus for some reason or some incompatible software issue.

Starting to feel like i purchased the wrong car as a project car to restore..... it has some serious electronic gremlins and i am clueless as to where to start - please be gentle on me, i am a Hobbyist that has an avid interest in mechanical and electronics/ car stuff Smile

PROBLEM - NO START/ Not even CRANK.
Vehicle will only start after being left for a few days (sometimes without disconnecting battery terminals!!)- even when i disconnect the battery terminals and hold them together for a few seconds, car still will not start - it seemingly wants to be left in peace so it can start whenever it wants to?

FOB in, Clutch down, Car starts (after a few days of being left alone). If i turn the car off right after, it will not start again. Engine warning light is on intermittently, intermittent steering column locked message (i have opened it, and sometimes it actuates, sometimes it doesnt - it is definitely not stuck open or closed). HDC System offline message appears almost permanently now alongside "Engine System Fault"and transmission fault now.

As i am far more mechanically inclined than i am electrically, i have checked and double checked EARTH strap, even connected jumpers to Engine and earth and also a jumper cable to ECU (car started but i think this is coincidental, because it wouldn't start after turning off and trying again with everything connected).

When it doesnt start: I hear the BCM (Passenger footwell) click a few times, sometimes the dc motor in the steering lock spins (i then click the button on the unit to send a signal to the BCM that steering is Unlocked, which sometimes gets the car to start). I also hear the fuel pump spin up, and some clicks in the engine bay area.

The strange part is - that the instrument panel (especially heat gauge) dances up and down and the rev counter does the same intermittently. I have posted two videos (one just general of the engine running to show that it does start sometimes) and the second is a case showing the instument panel - even when pressing start - it does nothing but turn the instrument panel and ignition on and off.

I am guessing on the following suspects, hoping you guys could help me add a few or narrow it down?

Video 1 - Car Idling (started first time)
&feature=youtu.be

Video 2 - Right after car started, refused to start second time, not even cranking
&feature=youtu.be


1. Can BUS? But then why would the car start sometimes, and not other times?
2. Body Control Unit (Perhaps locked in CRASH MODE? - still, why would the car start sometimes)
3. Software for instrument cluster/PCM/ECU/BCM?


Things i plan on trying,
1. New bulb for brake light.
2. replace fuse in the boot (i think its for RDCM?? Not sure)
3. Disconnect ABS unit and try to start - (Will the car start or even crank)/ Might eliminate HDC faults preventing car from starting?
4. Ttransmission - will have to look for wiring leading to tranny and disconnect and see if any response.

Work Already Done
1. Repaired Steering Column Lock (still only works intermittently)*1
2. Replaced CYL 1 Injector (new, OEM) (R6200)
3. New Dual Mass Flywheel (R8500)
4. New Slave Cylinder (concentric in gearbox one)
5. New fuses on Body Control Unit (passenger footwell)
6. New Car Battery (652 i think)
7. Replaced Temp Sensor (OEM)

Work Planned
1. Replace Clutch slave (under pedal/ must be leaking)
2. Replace Left Front Ball Joint)
3. Replace Right Inner CV Boot
4. Replace Tail Lid (Brake Light)
5. New Rear Shocks
6. New Radiator Mounting (Fabricated)
7. Bonnet Spray Paint, repair cracks
8. Head Light (Refurb Mounting Brackets)
9. DIFF REPAIRS??? Thumping Noise when accelerating

*1.Steering Column Lock - Bought a salvaged one, removed the 8 pin IC and swapped it onto salvaged one to avoiding coding costs at dealership - This got the car to start the first time and then not again.
*2. I think i removed the fuse from the RDCM in the boot (car kept making a thump each time i accelerated coming from the back (no idea what this is, i have no experience working on a DIFF - might be a little motor in the diff maybe?

As you can tell - i have spent alot of time thinking it through and ruling out possible gremlins - anyone have any ideas?

Post #316060 23rd Jan 2017 2:46 pm
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thabogrobler



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 51

South Africa 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Baltic Blue

Hi Andrew,

Start with the bulbs first, they can cause some havoc.

Post #316181 24th Jan 2017 8:19 pm
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georgetina



Member Since: 28 Jul 2012
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 65

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Barolo Black

my 2007 GS suffered from similar problems. It turned out to be one of the plugs that are located in the passenger foot well on the left side. You have to pull the carpet back to expose a plastic cover over 3 plugs. On mine the front plug just fell out !! . Poor design as a passenger entering the car tends to put their foot against the plug cover. I Used some tie wraps to keep the plug and socket together. Drove several thousands miles after this "fix" and never had another problem. Worth looking at.

Post #316190 24th Jan 2017 9:05 pm
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

anyone have any ideas?

Looking at that list I suggest good insurance and hope someone steals it. Laughing FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #316198 24th Jan 2017 9:25 pm
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Almost certainly an intermittent electrical connector problem. Georgetina is correct. Look at the connecting block at the base of the A pillar. Think about what circuits are likely to have failed when you try the second start. Those are the connectors to go for. Look for loose pins, signs of burning, pushed back pins etc. Systematically check (disconnect, inspect both male & female, reconnect). A pillar, passenger fuse box (& behind it) engine bay fuse box, ECU, boot fuse boxDo all of this with battery disconnected. Don't even bother to fix any non-related faults until this is sorted. NB. ABS & HDC faults are unlikely to stop it starting. HDC indication on cranking suggests low voltage.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #316212 24th Jan 2017 11:14 pm
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westville



Member Since: 12 Jun 2015
Location: Dunston
Posts: 1096

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Fuji White

Have you had the codes read on a proper reader?
It seems to me that you are casting your net too widely - yes these things could all be related or even the cause but you have to work systematically and eliminate the obvious first
Just a thought - over to you No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Post #316223 25th Jan 2017 8:26 am
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Stuartc



Member Since: 01 Dec 2014
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 2292

Australia 2015 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Aintree Green



As mentioned above start with these plugs as it's the junction point for the main dash, chassis & engine compartment to CJB.
Will cause all sorts of issues like your describing if there's a bad connection. I'm guessing from what's been said above that later models have different plug setup as mine are all a hinge lock style plug, so the connectors cannot be dislodged unless unlocked. A simple problem as a bad connection can cause all sort of DTC's and system problems. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Post #316228 25th Jan 2017 8:46 am
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wella_fella



Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: Kent
Posts: 11

England 

I'm having very similar problems.

Here's a video of my failure to start https://vimeo.com/196848333

Sometimes it will start first time others it will take 10 attempts or so.

I'll be interested to hear if you manage to resolve it!

Post #316481 29th Jan 2017 5:18 pm
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Trav



Member Since: 27 Aug 2016
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 167

Scotland 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Lux Manual Rimini Red

I would certainly refit the Haldex fuse as is does tie in with the high speed can bus system which your immobilizer is in the same loop. Not saying that is the fix tho.

also whats the fault codes?

Post #316482 29th Jan 2017 6:14 pm
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cristian.truta1



Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Targu Mures
Posts: 41

Romania 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

I have the same issues with my Freelander 2.How did you sort this issue? Many thanks

Post #406824 20th Apr 2021 6:24 pm
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Jagracer



Member Since: 22 Feb 2019
Location: east anglia
Posts: 156

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Bali Blue

Hi, I have a similar problem after changing the engine. Look for code B10A crash, which is the restraints module in the fuse box behind the glove box. Dealer software to reset it. B10EA is in the fuel tank. The can Bus is disconnected in crash mode. I think it is a short to ground in the Loom somewhwere.

Post #412709 26th Sep 2021 11:21 am
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