Hi guys
Been ages since I posted on here, usually lurking over on D2 Boys Club these days (Discovery 2 for the uninitiated!). Always plenty to talk about (Fix) with one of these in the family.

Fl2 has been making a noise for a while now. It's been from the cam belt when it is cold, quiet when it is hot. Sounded a bit like dry bearing noise. So not wanting a repeat of our Renault scenic that recently lunched the idler bearing causing belt to slip and belt valves - head rebuild and £400 later - I was getting a little nervous - an engine rebuild on the freelander wouldn't be good!

So got a Gates cam belt kit from Ebay for £100, timing pins for £50. Also got a starter solenoid refurb kit for £16.30 as recently it has stopped starting - if you get my English!

Fairly simple job with the right kit. Old belt and pulleys looked fine but I did find that the tensioner pulley pointer was not adjusted right. The tensioner was set loose with the pointer about an inch above the slot where it should be. The nut on the tensioner was not very tight so I am guessing it has moved at some point which is a bit worrying. Nobody would have been near that area since the engine was built.

I did take a picture of the tensioner but unfortunately it hasn't come out very well. So no point posting. I did end up reusing the crank bolt as the Gates kit didn't have a new one and the local stealers didn't have one in stock (no surprise) So I assumed that they don't change them when they do a cam belt? I did clean the threads and apply new locktite. The bolt isn't that tight - well not compared to a TD5 one anyway !

Other worry is engine oil on bottom of engine / sump guard. It could be rear crank seal or possible a large oil spillage from a poor oil change at the stealer?? Cleaned it all off, so will keep an eye on it. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

I'm debating whether I do the timing belt myself on my 2007 HSE. Done plenty else on my vehicles but never done one before and always feel a bit anxious at the thought of messing it up....

There is a 'how to' guide on youtube.



Any tips to give in 'first-timers'? 😎 Only dead fish go with the flow

Last edited by Gapster on 25th Sep 2016 11:34 am. Edited 1 time in total

hi, my previous freelander was coming up to 10 years old and had done 100k and I was considering doing th e cambelt myself, I bought the gates kit from ebay, £77 and te locking kit from ebay and some antifreeze, anyhow then I sold the car and bought a 12 reg with 52k on the clock.

Anyhow whilst researching this I found a bbrilliant video on you tube of a chap changing his cambelt on his fl2

have a look at it before you pay someone,

No real difficulties with it. I also checked out the couple of vids on youtube before starting it.

unbolting some of the cable holders for the cables near starter motor helped with access to starter. I would also consider a starter solenoid refurb kit whilst it is off. Cost me £16.30 and took all of 5 mins to fit! The contacts on the Denso starter are a known weak point. You can get the kit on Ebay.

As any job it is all about having the correct tools. A decent sized wrench for the crank bolt is a must! Also a hex socket to make sure it fits well. Previously I bought an impact socket set for my windy gun from Toolstation for about £30 this is all hex sockets.

You will also need the odd torx socket and bit here and there!

Make sure the timing pins are pushed fully into there locating holes, esp the fly wheel one, as it is difficult to see. I put a spanner on crank bolt to move crank at same time as pushing in pin to make sure it was located correctly.

Took about 4 hours in all. 1998 Feelander XDI Hardback - Gone
2002 Freelander TD4 GS Hardback - Gone
2004 Freelander TD4 HSE Stationwaggon - Gone
2007 Freelander 2 TD4 XS manual - Gone
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto - Gone
2013 SD4 GS arrived April 2013

Thanks - I might 'brave' this job after the winter  Only dead fish go with the flow

Hi to the timing belt crew,
my Freel2 MJ 2012 has now 205000km and the manuals give 240000 for changing of the timing belt.I´m planning to do the job myself. Saves and you know you have done the best you could.
I have learnd vom Agroman what i feared anyway: that it is very probable that no new screw is taken for the crankshaft pulley if this work is done in a dealership. Is it a good idea to use some loctite for the final assembly or will this make it impossible to do the job next time? That would be at 480000km , not bad, but I did it before!
I do have questions:
Is it sufficient to use the two timing pins? And where can i buy only those?
From Haynes and Youtube it seems possible to turn the crankshaft sprocket relative to the key that moves the sensor ring.
I thought that the crankshaft sprocket is unmovably connected to the crankshaft?
Would be wonderful to learn!
By the way: this Freel2 is one of the most reliable cars i have driven, and there were Volvo and Mercedes up to 3, 4 and 500000km.
Greetings from the Continent!

The crankshaft sprocket has play vs. the key in order to allow you to change/adjust the valve train timing.
If you will align all marks and properly tension the belt, you'll see that the key will be perfectly in the middle of the sprocket gap.
Then the sprocket will be kept in position by the sensor ring tightly pressed over by the bolt.

Thanks Alex , for this exact explanation. I have a few kilometers to go till I have to change the timing belt, but hope that till then I have understood how it works!

agroman wrote:

Old belt and pulleys looked fine but I did find that the tensioner pulley pointer was not adjusted right. The tensioner was set loose with the pointer about an inch above the slot where it should be.

My FL2 of 2012 now has 263000km on the clock. TimingBelt could be changed at 240000 by myself, thanks to advice given here.I used a st from Gates with waterpump, idler and tensioner all complete. was 100 Euro the whole package.
Up to now no relevant repairs. First engine, first gearbox , first clutch, first exhaust.
Its a really well running little car.

big service next year which I intend to carry out my self which includes timing belt I also want to change auto box oil and drop haldex unit for cleaning etc only problem is Im working in the street is this work possible to be carried out on ramps and stands

at least the changing of the timing belt and all regular service can be done on the street. I have done it on level ground in front of my garage. Certainly more comfortable with a lift , but its readily possible. Good Luck.