I have an 08reg FL2 with 99K miles and think I might need to replace the clutch. The last time I did one was on a ford escort and a massey ferguson tractor (dual clutch) in the 70's! I am recently retired, have a good garage space at home and lots of tools and time available so how easy is it to do an FL2 clutch on your own? Also as there is no Haynes Manual does anyone have any instructions of how to do it?

Thanks

Fredastaire might be able to help you. He did a post about engine removal

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14072.htm...ne+removal

It is for an auto but I cant imagine it being much different for a manual??

EDIT: Sorry re-read your post. The link above is how to remove the engine, that's only half the job, sorry cant help with the clutch part. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

The engine I bought had a manual flywheel and clutch so at least ive seen the bits first hand. The workshop manual is Topix which is available I understand for viewing on line; perhaps somebody here can give you the link. I bought my manual from Ebay on a CD and it turns out to be Topix clone but of course none of the auto page linking works because you have bought pages in PDf format.
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I would recommend first that you start by reading Topix and if its as daft for the manual box as it is for the auto then you need to think again.
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From having done the job myself personally with a bit of help from a friend whilst doing the hoist out / hoist in then I would be 99% certain that it can be done 'engine out the top'. You do need a bit more clearance for the manual engine as the clutch is a bit deeper that an auto where the 'clutch bit'; being the torque convertor, is left in the bell housing..
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Pm me if you need to discuss more, I'm quite happy to talk with you. Ive also still got the ski plate and cross members in my garage.
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Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Has this thread gone a bit astray? I was looking at removing the gearbox on my own to get to the clutch, not the whole engine!

I think the suggestion is that removing the engine to get at the clutch might actually be easier than following the Topix instructions for removing the transmission! Because of the transverse mounting of the engine/gearbox the gearbox removal procedure is not exactly straightforward, involving removal of the front subframe of the car! You'll need a very well equipped workshop, and some help, to do that on you own! That said, I have no idea whether removing the engine would actually give you the required access to the clutch, never having attempted anything like this.

Hi, I can only comment regarding the auto; the Topix has you lifting the body / lowering the drivetrain for the auto and that means mega work to dismantle and remove most of the suspension.
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That's why I reccomended getting a read if Topix for the manual box removal.
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Until you have read Topix you can't compare.
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I would reccomend buying the manual on CD from EBay. It's a quick way of having the manual in your hands on say a days post.
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I'm quite happy to talk over with you my personal experience.
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Kind regards from Fred
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Procedure for the manual looks similar to the auto, with the same level of dismantling. It's a major task, not to be undertaken lightly.

OK will look into it, my son had a clutch done on his FL2 recently and they charged for 6 hours labour which was evidently the "official" time allowed for the job. I was thinking that as I have all of the (retired) time in the world now then I might have a go even if it took me 12 hours (and more interesting than going on a cruise or dressing up for the golf club).
Thanks everyone.

Your problem may be more to do with equipment than time. Removing the engine Fred's way will require an engine hoist (and may or may not give you the access you need). Removing the transmission the Topix way will still require the engine to be supported, but you'll also require a subframe hoist, something to support the transmission, and some way of getting the transmission out from under the car!

I think 12 hours may be optimistic for a first-time DiY clutch change. Very optimistic...

Can't see it taking much more time than your average modern FWD clutch apart from being on the heavy side with the transfer box etc. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I thought I would give a quick precis of my experience of doing a clutch on a FL2. As you can see from my other posts, I am no mechanic, never have been, but love taking things apart and working out how to fix things. I’m an engineer by trade. All the posts on the forum say how difficult it is and it is. The garage time is quoted at 6 hours and it took me 3 ½ days. Taking my time and being methodical. I did have problems but overcame them. So to give others the confidence to have a go here are my highlights
• Jacked car up on decent axle stands using the two body jacking points behind front sub frame.
• Placed a piece of 3 x 3 fence post across the top of the engine to support weight of gearbox. Braced on just inside front wings and cut perfectly to length.
• Used a safety jack taking the weight of the engine at the mating point with gearbox.
• Dismantled and removed both wishbones and completely removed nearside strut.
• Had a 3 ft - ½” breaker bar to remove sub frame bolts – 21mm socket required.
• Lowering sub frame was quite easy and did it on my own using a jack at the rear and axle stands at the front.
• Left exhaust alone, didn’t need to touch it.
• Removal of prop joint, offside driveshaft support bracket and transfer box was fairly straight forward.
• After all the ring bolts around gearbox are removed it was easy to lower onto my chest and roll it to one side. It is heavy though so have someone to hand.
• Replaced, DMF, clutch plate and cover and also slave cylinder.
• I reverse bled the slave before fitting to ensure it worked. Used a medical syringe and pumped fluid in via the slave bleed nipple until the brake reservoir started to rise.
• To put the gearbox back in I needed help. Placed a small jack under GB. A cradle would have helped! I laid two 1” ratchet straps around the wooden post mentioned earlier, and slowly worked the gearbox up until it aligned with holes. Then swung it in to locate dowels. The engine does have to be lowered slightly to get clearance under the nearside wheel arch. This was controlled with the safety jack. Having a strap at the front and back of the GB allowed fine adjustment to get it just right.
• I was originally sold the wrong clutch kit so had to perform this procedure twice. Takes a bit of patience but it’s all down hill after it’s located. Once a couple of bolts are in, check the pedal to make sure you have a clutch, that’s how I diagnosed the wrong one had been fitted, very frustrating!
• Look after your driveshaft’s, especially the inner joints, they shouldn’t be allowed to over rotate.
• Don’t forget fresh GB oil, easy to refill from nearside straight from the bottle.
Not much more to say, I am very happy with my efforts and probably saved around £800 at the garage. I did remove the clutch pedal and replaced the master cylinder at the same time. Two very tricky bolts at the top which I will detail to anyone if they are interested. Biggest job I’ve undertaken in quite some time but very rewarding. Thank you to my good friend Buzzby and my Dad for their help,

Thanks for taking the time for the write up .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (For now ?)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S

I wonder one day if someone will be brave enough to try taking the engine out to do a clutch change, leaving the gearbox insitu? It's years ago when I did my engine swap the easy way albeit mine is auto. All the best and kind regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva