My aux socket has dropped to left side audio. Lifting the cable out slightly brings back both left and right.

I'm assuming the actual socket has moved within the black socket.

Before I try and remove it to see if it just needs re-seated, how does it come out from the centre console? I don't want to mark it in case I end up taking it in to get fixed under warranty, which would be a pain for something likely so simple.

Seen threads which talk about removing it but don't actually say how.

Cheers. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

It's in two halves

The bit you see slots in from above then the bit with wires going to it attaches from below, with plastic clips that will need pushing in to release Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Thanks. So how do I actually remove it? Do I need to remove centre console or should the black plastic unclip and come out? Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

You just have to Unclip each part, when I removed mine I had rear audio controls, you might just have the blanking plate, remove the little tray below, fingers up and push the blanking plate out to allow better access

This is what it looks like



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

That also show the Ford part number if you need one  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Ah right, so I remove the wee bit at the very back and then push the socket out from underneath? Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Yes, but as I say the two halves click together so it doesn't all go out the top the holes too small for the lower half to fit through

You have to work out how to separate them, iirc it can be done by squeezing together the lower half to retract the retaining clips

I'll try find my old you in my draw at the office later and have a look Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Chuckalicious, I'm planning to do exactly the same thing today/tomorrow, having precisely the same issue. It may be that the socket is actually damaged and one of the pins inside has moved/bent and not touching properly the jack when in. Please report back here if anything worthy... MY2011, TD4 Auto, Xenon headlights, fog lamps DRLs, sunroof, tinted windows, almond electric seats w/ lumbar support, leather steering wheel w/ audio controls, dog/luggage guard, ambient lights, flush Whispbars, Mantec sump&tank guards, Xtrons Head Unit

Funny enough, we also have the same car, same MY, just mine is LHD. MY2011, TD4 Auto, Xenon headlights, fog lamps DRLs, sunroof, tinted windows, almond electric seats w/ lumbar support, leather steering wheel w/ audio controls, dog/luggage guard, ambient lights, flush Whispbars, Mantec sump&tank guards, Xtrons Head Unit

Will do. Might try it tonight once the kids are in bed. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Fixed. As said, you need to pop to top bit up either with a tiny flat screw driver from the top or push it up from underneath via the big plastic clips. Id vote for the latter as I broke one of the clips getting it up via the top. You can then get the bottom bit out from underneath.

Unclip the connector so you have full access to the socket itself.

From there I bent the 2 contacts further into the hole. First time it didn't work but second time I got all channels back. No crackling on rotation of cable.

Seeing how easy I is, if it goes again I will just replace it. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Super, will try tomorrow too. For the record, the LR part number is LR003821 - searched for it online meanwhile. MY2011, TD4 Auto, Xenon headlights, fog lamps DRLs, sunroof, tinted windows, almond electric seats w/ lumbar support, leather steering wheel w/ audio controls, dog/luggage guard, ambient lights, flush Whispbars, Mantec sump&tank guards, Xtrons Head Unit

check the ford part number also, might save a few quid Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Just a wee update. The socket went wonky again so have ordered a new one from Brit Car. £5 so thought easier than mucking about with bending pins every few days. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

try another cable too. I've messed up mine when trying to hold the jack in a position that would allow it to work. Realised only after I dismantled the socket that cable is gone too. MY2011, TD4 Auto, Xenon headlights, fog lamps DRLs, sunroof, tinted windows, almond electric seats w/ lumbar support, leather steering wheel w/ audio controls, dog/luggage guard, ambient lights, flush Whispbars, Mantec sump&tank guards, Xtrons Head Unit