Very good job! Congratulation.

Does anyone know if it can be done on a MY2010 HSE too?

Do you have to drill new holes to install it or the fixation points are the same?

Regards!

^^^^

So, nothing to do with this thread. First post. Advert much?

Well, I have finally got around to modifying the circuit I used to counter for GenLabs ceasing trading and built another set of looms to go with the headlights I have for sale. Please see my For Sale ad or look them up on that well known auction site using Freelander 2, LED and Headlights as the search terms.

See: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic18357.html

Get them whilst you can, I'm not doing any more! Life is too short.............

Peter

Hi

I'm in the process of fiting the 2013 signature headlights to my 2011 fl2, and I note without any changes of the wiring im able to plug the lights in and the signature strip comes on when the car turns on.

I also note the round DRL's come on when I try to indicate however there is no response when trying to put normal or high beam on (so assume this All just means the wires need to be realigned to the new pin format so that indicator wires go to indicator pin etc)

My question is, as all I am trying to achieve is the signature strip and not overly fussed about whether the round 7led DRL part of the headlight is used (mainly as I don't think it adds much in looks and certainly it seems to complicate the retrofitting). Could I then simply buy the 16pin adapters you mentioned from simtek and just rematch up the correct wires in my looms and that would be done with it? Would this create and risk of reverse feed as you mentioned above?
Is there anything I haven't consodered? 2011 black FL2

I have a my 13 car and when I swapped my headlights to the xenon type they would not work until programmed on,just a thought ,also the round led and signature strip become the daylight running lights with the roundel dimming and the signature strip becoming the side light.

That's ok these aren't xenon just halogen.

What do you mean by side light?

Does the signature strip dim at night or just the round LED part is off at night and dims for turning? 2011 black FL2

I am not sure what you mean about turning but from what I see on mine the signature strip remains constant and the led roundel dims when you turn the sidelights on and becomes along with the strip the sidelights.

It should also dim when you indicate respectively, although the signature strip should remain at the same lumens. Foraging near Gaydon....
——————————————
MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

Hi Lukeis

Whilst you are quite correct that you can just buy a pair of plugs and sockets and create changeover adapters, there are a couple of issues you have to address. If you read my posts you can see that I discovered the hard way that the flash function will not work (with the headlights off) unless you also power up the dipped line as in these headlights, the high beam line just activates a shutter. You can also connect the round DRL feed (pin 4) to the side light feed pin 16 to make it illuminate but it will always be on when you have headlights on if you do this which is counter to the law.

So the answer to your question is that you can make up changeover adapters but the result will not give you "daylight" headlight flashing (I think that this may be a MOT fail - not sure) and that the DRL will always be on when your headlights and side lights are on. If you park up on sidelights (engine off), the round DRL will also be illuminated. Not only will this significantly drain power but again, its contrary to my understanding of the law. Whilst being arguably illegal, the lights will not work like current Freelander models on the road.

What you can do a possible half-way house (still technically illegal in some respects) is to add the pin 10/11 diode to the lines as shown in my post. That way you can overcome the flashing issue.

Hi again - just noticed that you are in Sydney so my comments on what's legal or not may not apply. Fundamental issue though remains that if you wire them up without adding some "intelligence" to the adapters, they will not fnction like other factory-fit Freelanders. When I get "5 minutes", I'm going to sit down and do another "circuit" that will provide better functionality based on readily available components such as relays and capacitors as having thought about the issues some more, it cannot be that difficult to achieve the correct indicating functionality. If only I was retired!

Regards.

Peter

Excellent work Peter.

I am new Freel2 so hello to all; I plan to embark on this project in the next few weeks having sourced some signature headlights. Incidentally my lights are LHD variants but my plan is to work on the shaped shutter to make them correct for UK roads. I will of course detail this by way of a new topic.

Like Lukeis I also do not think the full intensity of the round cluster of DRL adds anything beyond what the signature strips give. Your response to him, if I read it correctly is based on the assumption that he was going to join pins 4 and 16 together, with no diode. I don't think this was his intention, and as a result wouldn't be contravening any (UK) law as the DRL could never get to full intensity if pin 4 was not utilised. Yes the diode between pins 11 + 10 is necessary, but the installation is very much simplified than before. Of course to then want Signatures on + DRL's (dimly lit) you would either have to manually set the light switch to 'side lights', or feed pin 16 from pin 16 on the pre 2013 plug.

Also, you state that when the indicator is used in daylight conditions the DRL also flashes 'on' and 'off' in reverse phase to the indicator. I expect the 'on' phase is at full power and although I have not witnessed this first hand, I don't think I would be happy with that arrangement. So again, the simpler installation would mean this was not an issue as the DRL's would always be in the 'dim' mode.

My final observation is more aimed to Lukeis; you state that when plugging the lights directly to the existing loom that the signature lights come on but not the DRL's. As you have 12V to pin 16 with the ignition on, I would expect the DRL's to be on in 'dim' mode. This is because Peter concludes (in post 4) that with power to pin 16 the DRL's are on dim, and this seemingly shouldn't change for lights with or without signature strips.

I hope you don't think I'm being negative as you truly have single handedly made this conversion possible for the masses, I am just after your thoughts with regard to my comments, just in case I am way off the mark or have missed something. I will be playing around with the light cluster and perhaps a PLC to go through all the scenarios on the bench before connecting to the vehicle.

Iain

I have checked pins 4 + 16 on my signature halogens. It would appear that on signature lights there is no possible way of dimming of the DRL's. I surmise this is the case as the signature strips performs that function.

Iain

Hi there have ha still got the light and connections for sale if so would ya take £350 money waiting cheers richard

Hi guys

Ian you are correct, I would like to leave the 7 LED lights completely out of the equation - currently they come on when I indicate, instead of the indicator lights, I plan to move that wire to the correct indicator pin which will leave the LEDs dead. You are also correct in saying there is no dim mode for the LED's.. So unless I indicate (as mentioned above) there is absolutely no response from the led lights when plugging them in to a my2013 car.

Today my simtek adapters arrived, I now need to go through the process of finding which pin does what function for the car and then for the new lights so that I can begin to match them up in my new looms.

Basically, all I want is the following;
1) signature lights on permanently
2) Orange indicators working
3) headlights (I think you refer to this as main beam) on at night (or when the auto sensor says so)
4) ability to flash or have high beam on when needed

I suspect a lot of people looking to do the conversion would be happy with the same. If anyone has the knowledge it would be extremely useful if they could simply tell me which pin to connect to which pin on the simtek adaptors to have this outcome?

Thanks so much, luke 2011 black FL2

Last edited by Lukeis on 20th Oct 2014 4:47 am. Edited 1 time in total

I should add, I could count on one hand how many times I have used side lights (we call them parking lights in aus) in the past 10 years so definitely not something I'm worried about either and very unlikely to be picked up in a rego (mot) check here however if getting them working is as simple as an extra wire in the loom then we might as well add it in.. 2011 black FL2

Luke, Your signature lights are in fact the sidelights on signature strip equipped lights.

I have come up with a modified version of Wyntonpjs wiring diagram. In a nutshell I have moved the pins around on the back of the connector on the lights to their required position (and made a note of where they were in case I ever need to put them back to factory default. This has therefore saved me a small fortune in buying the connectors. I did however have to buy additional pins for the connectors but these are just 35p / pair. The required diode will be mounted within the light unit, and will configure my DRL to come on in high beam mode only by wiring in parrallel with the shutter, the light might as well get used to accompany the full beam if nothing else.

I will post the diagram later when I get back home.

Iain